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Old 03-02-2011, 09:29 PM   #21
1320racer
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

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No offense intended to you and your bracket car but until you build a Stocker you don't know. Stock requires stock OEM oil pan. Baffles only get you so far. Some sumps are in the rear, some are in the front. And there is only so much that will fit in a stock pan. Accusumps take care of the issue in Stock but that is only a recent rule change.
And I hate to tell you but plenty of heads up runs have been won with oil changes.
and no offense to you but I KNOW! I've got several friends that race stock and super stock. Not one is clicking their engines off at the stripe AND they ain't hoping yo win a heads up race by draining a quart or two of oil! Of course they were/are winning bracket racers first!

Last edited by 1320racer; 03-02-2011 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 03-02-2011, 10:52 PM   #22
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

Then you should know not all oil pans, engines or oiling systems are created equal and Stock / SS is a diverse field that includes almost every brand.
Considering Stock Eliminator LS1's are running 9's, it is really "no big thing" with what you have and there is absolutely no comparison between your results and that of a legitimate Super Stocker.
Like Ed indicated, the waters warm, jump in!
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Old 03-03-2011, 12:07 AM   #23
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

This thread could get really interesting and out of control.

I run a stocker and always nutral and shut it off. Its just a part of the run for me. When I hear cars go through the lights on the engine brake I think about the timing chain or the belt or the fact the rear end is now driving the transmission which is now driving the engine. I have nutral'd and shut off all my cars from 120mph to 141mph nitrous street cars and have never seen any wear on transmission parts ever. Just my 2 cents
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Old 03-03-2011, 09:54 AM   #24
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

Some very important aspects of this debate have been overlooked .
Before considering neutraling any 3 speed transmission in a S/SS ,or any other car, you MUST have a valve body that enables a clean neutral.
Even with liteweight components the possibility of the drum overrunning its's critical speed is very great.
I know one racer who frequents this board who experienced a catastrophic explosion in his TH 400 equipped SS car after having been neutraling it for years.

I have been neutraling my clutch and PG equipped cars since the '70's. ,not because of oil pressure loss,but because there is no need to be putting any more wear and tear on the valvetrain. It's like putting those extra revolution cycles in the bank.
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Old 03-04-2011, 04:42 PM   #25
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

I'm glad Tom Goldman brought up the valve bodies. With my 727 Torqueflite program I have a couple of different types, one is the old school Turbo Action full manual reverse pattern and the other is an A&A reverse pattern with first gear band apply. With the TA, first is neutral off the gas, allowing me to shift backwards through 2,1 and into neutral. With the A&A valve body 1st is 1st and a bad idea at speed. I don't shut it off on the big end anymore to keep myself from doing something stupid. Is there anything wrong with just letting off the gas and slowing down in third?

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Old 03-04-2011, 07:07 PM   #26
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

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I'm glad Tom Goldman brought up the valve bodies. With my 727 Torqueflite program I have a couple of different types, one is the old school Turbo Action full manual reverse pattern and the other is an A&A reverse pattern with first gear band apply. With the TA, first is neutral off the gas, allowing me to shift backwards through 2,1 and into neutral. With the A&A valve body 1st is 1st and a bad idea at speed. I don't shut it off on the big end anymore to keep myself from doing something stupid. Is there anything wrong with just letting off the gas and slowing down in third?

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Can anyone show us a printout or graph where to engine RPM climbs as an auto equipped car returns to idle , in gear in the lights. I don't see it happening through the converter in a reverse flow situation. Maybe a for a split second, before the turbine ,stator ,and impeller know what's going on.
I know Marv used to market a one way converter drive for the Comp cars.

BTW, I always neutral a stick car in the lights..Never an automatic car..
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:59 PM   #27
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

The Turbo 350 trans with "clean neutral" (mine is a Rossler) and the correct shifter makes it perfectly safe to put it in neutral at the finish line. Couldn't put into reverse if you wanted to. Very common practice in SS. Can't say about Stock.
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Old 03-05-2011, 06:32 AM   #28
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

Not for me. I really dont want to re roof my car or the one in the other lane ! I wait until Im down to 60 or less, just for my own peace of mind, but engine and front pump are still running.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:11 AM   #29
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

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Very common practice in SS. Can't say about Stock.
Lots of monkey see, monkey do in all venues of automotive racing! Don't mean it's right or necessary.

If deceleration is bad on the rotating assembly, imagine what ftbing by those stock and super stock racers that are holding a tenth or more, driving the stripe and turning on the win light more often than not is doing to their engine!

Last edited by 1320racer; 03-05-2011 at 10:23 AM.
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Old 03-05-2011, 10:14 AM   #30
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Default Re: Engine Shut Down

Lets see what happens with your bracket car with a 6.00 rear gear in it.
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