1st post...new with questions

[super-x]

Hello,

This is my post post on these forums... Don't know if I'm posting in the right sub-forum but I'll try it anyway. In short, I'm 44 and have been a long time drag racing fan. I am also a manufacturing engineer with 25 years of experience in machining, welding and fabrication. I started bracket racing my 2006 mustang for fun the past couple years but would like to possibly take things another step further. I have entertained the idea of getting a dragster and maybe running in the super-pro category. I have been trying to do some research on cars, (which chassis), and which style of frame (hard tail, 4-link, etc.) One of my biggest questions have been typical operating costs per year and what kind of work it takes to maintain a car. I understand it's proportional to how often and how hard it is run, but I would think there would be some baselines to start with. I currently fly an ultralight I built and have been considering a change in hobbies. I just don't want to make a change over to something completely different and realize I fell into a black hole! If anyone has any info of this nature or has any links they could forward with some good info it would be appreciated.

[masracing]

First of all welcome to the sport. Just be warned it is very addictive. Once you start you cant stop

I think cost is very dependent on what you are looking to do. There are so many variables that come into play.
As far as the hardtail vs. fourlink there have been a lot of debates. I personally own a hardtail Dan Page car and I am very happy with it. I have been 6.8s with no problems. Others say fourlinks are better. Its a matter of opinion. There have been a lot of debates up here about that As far as price you can find decent used cars for around 12,000 dollars up to building a brand new car for 100,000 all depends on what you want to do. I think the fun factor is the same regardless.

I think it would be easier to give you an idea of operating costs if you let us know some other details.
Are you looking to run local super pro races or high dollar brackets?
How far do you live from the tracks you will race at?
Do you plan to buy a motor home or stay in hotels?
How often do you plan to race?
How fast are you looking to go?
How much of the work are you able to do on your own? If you are an engineer you probably will be able to do a lot of it.
Depending on how fast you want to go you can by motors that will put an average dragster in the mid sevens with very little maintenance. Other than changing the oil and occassionaly checking valve springs. I put about 150 runs on mine a year. That is low compared to others. I choose to freshen my motor every year. I have heard of others make 3-400 runs between freshen ups. Most of the cars are pretty low maintenance.
Good Luck and as I said have fun. Its a great sport

B.J. Masiello

[super-x]

Originally Posted by masracing

First of all welcome to the sport. Just be warned it is very addictive. Once you start you cant stop

I think cost is very dependent on what you are looking to do. There are so many variables that come into play.
As far as the hardtail vs. fourlink there have been a lot of debates. I personally own a hardtail Dan Page car and I am very happy with it. I have been 6.8s with no problems. Others say fourlinks are better. Its a matter of opinion. There have been a lot of debates up here about that As far as price you can find decent used cars for around 12,000 dollars up to building a brand new car for 100,000 all depends on what you want to do. I think the fun factor is the same regardless.

I think it would be easier to give you an idea of operating costs if you let us know some other details.
Are you looking to run local super pro races or high dollar brackets? Just local super pro races.
How far do you live from the tracks you will race at? about 1 to 1.5 hrs
Do you plan to buy a motor home or stay in hotels? hotels if needed...
How often do you plan to race? I would say 150 runs like yourself would be a good 1st guess...again lower than most.
How fast are you looking to go? I've had 8 - 8.5 sec in the 1/4 in mind...
How much of the work are you able to do on your own? If you are an engineer you probably will be able to do a lot of it. I would want to to do all of it on my own. Not going to lie...not a ton of engine experience...I understand it all...and have worked on them...but very limited...like a dragster because accessibility...not to mention good drive-ability. (from what I've heard)
Depending on how fast you want to go you can by motors that will put an average dragster in the mid sevens with very little maintenance. Other than changing the oil and occassionaly checking valve springs. I put about 150 runs on mine a year. That is low compared to others. I choose to freshen my motor every year. I have heard of others make 3-400 runs between freshen ups. Most of the cars are pretty low maintenance.
Good Luck and as I said have fun. Its a great sport

B.J. Masiello

Thanks for the reply! Engine wise I was think of something in a 400 small block...any real advantages to a BB? I talked with a guy last year who's dragster I was interested in. He basically laid out the same thing in regards to changing oil and check valve lash. However, he seemed to eager to sell his rail and I wasn't totally buying his story on maintenance. So when freshening rolls around...what do you replace...rings, bearings, springs, fluids? Is there a standard? Thanks again for the help! -Mark

[Carl Juliano]

Go with a big-block. Theres a reason that 90% of all bracket and S/C dragsters have them. One advantage is lots of torque and hp at lower rpm. Lots of engine companies offer "off the shelf" BBC's making big power (700-1k), and are very low maint. motors.

[super-x]

thanks Carl!

[super-x]

anybody else?...more help the better...thanks

[RACER1530]

get a 4 link car the resale is better and they are better all around and also safer( I have owned and driven both)
there are some real good deals out there with the economy the way it is.
good luck and have some fun!!

[Chris Williams]

See my post on the other, similar thread here.

Having driven both, but currently have a hardtail, I can tell you that you'll want a suspended car. 90% of the time, it's "who cares", but you'll get to an iffy track, or a bumpy shutdown and be really glad you had it.

Really the only way to get started is by buying someone else's turnkey operation (with trailer if you can get it). You get started right away, and then can spend the first year or two learning what YOU want. You'll find a million "if I was going to do this, I would've done xxx". Then you can work on getting your list together.

[Bill Baer]

Racer X

Out of necessity I built my current hard tail dragster my self using a chassis kit from S&W the body & seat I fabricated from .050 Aluminum there rear housing came from Mark Williams the brakes and the spool axels and brakes come from Strange etc. I would like to build a new four link or swing arm chassis as I think there are more consistent and definitely stop better that a hard tail (hard tails can get to bouncing if you brake too aggressively) I probably have 6-7K in the rolling car (the paint was one of the most expensive items) I also do my own transmissions, ring and pinion and motor assembly.
I have a friend who’s an engine builder who does the machine work and dyno’s the motors for me. As to motor choice I prefer slow turning >7500 RPM Big blocks.
They make more power than the small bocks but they make the car 100# heavier. So a small block will also work fine.
As far maintenance goes I check the valve lash and valve spring pressure about every third weekend (15-20 passes) and last year I replaced one spring in ~110 passes, I change the oil and clean the oil filter about every other month (~35-50 passes) I change the brake fluid, trans fluid, rear end lube and spark plugs every winter I also have all my starters rebuilt, rebuild the brakes and rebuild my transmission during the winter. I buy new tires every other year (200 passes)
I have two motors one with > 400 passes and one with ~100 passes the older one is due for a complete over haul. Both have Jessel shaft rockers which have proved built proof. (I previously had a problem with breaking rocker arm studs )To freshen I will replace the crank, rods pistons, rings, bearings, valves, valve springs and the roller lifters (when they break it gets real ugly)
There is no real standard, if run methanol you will need to change the oil more frequently if you run a big roller the valve spring life will be reduced as will buzzing the motor past 8000 on the burnout it all depends on your experience and what your comfortable with.

I agree with Chris’ comment on; “Really the only way to get started is by buying someone else's turnkey operation (with trailer if you can get it). You get started right away, and then can spend the first year or two learning what YOU want. You'll find a million "if I was going to do this, I would've done xxx". Then you can work on getting your list together.”
And I definitely agree with Mr. Masiello’s comment; “Just be warned it is very addictive. Once you start you can’t stop