how to speed up my pure stock 305 Camaro

[ALMACK]

^^ Good suggestions so far.

-160 deg. thermostat
- as deep of a rear gear as resonable to cruise on the road with
- minimum weight to fit class
- lots of air pressure in the front tires
- short belt to bypass the power steering (or remove PS altogether)
- aftermarket headers and an x pipe (must run mufflers that are not "see through"

[Terry Witzel]

What e.t.'s are you running now? What horsepower is your motor?

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by ALMACK

^^ Good suggestions so far.

-160 deg. thermostat
- as deep of a rear gear as resonable to cruise on the road with
- minimum weight to fit class
- lots of air pressure in the front tires
- short belt to bypass the power steering (or remove PS altogether)
- aftermarket headers and an x pipe (must run mufflers that are not "see through"

Don't think it needs a chip? Many of those have a delay before the ECM goes into Power Enrichment. That is like your Holley power valve not opening for a few seconds.
You can not band aid around that. Also timing it foot braking from a low RPM. Turn the distributor far enough to make them leave like that, and it's over-advanced at higher RPM. You have to change the curve.
Just the washer part of a thermostat would be better than a 160. Do you race your car at 160? Probably not if it has an iron block.

[randall502]

Headers are on the way. Ordered some headman headers and got some flowmasters to go on it.

[randall502]

The car has run a best of 9.72. But other than that one time it runs 9.85s. and it is a 170HP 305

[ALMACK]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Don't think it needs a chip? Many of those have a delay before the ECM goes into Power Enrichment. That is like your Holley power valve not opening for a few seconds.
You can not band aid around that. Also timing it foot braking from a low RPM. Turn the distributor far enough to make them leave like that, and it's over-advanced at higher RPM. You have to change the curve.
Just the washer part of a thermostat would be better than a 160. Do you race your car at 160? Probably not if it has an iron block.

160 in the burnout box.
170 when the car is fully staged.
180 at the end of the run.
all on 93 Unleaded

[Mike Taylor 3601]

if you want to get a little deeper you can gain a lot of cam,of course it has to match specs for duration, overlap, and lift. cc heads you'll probaly find they need .030-.060 milled to get down to min. cc. match valve springs to press specs you'll probaly have to get specs from IHRA to come up with duration,overlap, and spring pressure.
With a pure stocker cam probaly need 4000-4500 or so on converter but w/lock up could cruise like stock converter.
4.56 is lowest you can get for 7.5 but w/ od I think is .77 which would make 3.51 final,take 4.56 and mutiply by .?? (od ratio) will give you actual ratio in OD.
Don't spend much on 7.5 when can go ahead and go 12 bolt.I spit 7.5's w/ auto out of my pure stocker when first built it
Mike Taylor 3601

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by ALMACK

160 in the burnout box.
170 when the car is fully staged.
180 at the end of the run.
all on 93 Unleaded

Why? Might try running it a little cooler. May find a little ET. Mine likes to leave about 90 degrees.

[Dan Fahey]

For Mufflers..I like Spintech the best ..

Enjoy that my ears are not ringing at the end of the day.!

BTW my car still has working AC and love cooling down a bit after a run

D

[ALMACK]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Why? Might try running it a little cooler. May find a little ET. Mine likes to leave about 90 degrees.

Ed:
Are you running racing fuel ?

I might experiment with the lower temps. Not sure how it will work with a 9 to 1 engine on unleaded pump gas.
Alot of the reason I run at those temps are for round robin (consistency) purposes. Easier to get the water temp down to 160 than it is 90 degrees between rounds.

I'm still using the OEM computer and sensors even tho the IHRA rulebook does not say a racer cannot run an aftermarket ECM. ( if I read that correctly)
All I did on my car was set the dizzy and leave out the spout connector so the timing is locked @ 32 deg.