Any Tips for Installing a Trans?

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Run to Rund

If the car is up high enough, you can usually get enough downward angle to install the engine and trans together. I have done that with 4 speed manuals for decades. The only problem occurs when the engine oil pan has a big sump that is deep and comes very close to the crossmember. In that case you can have the bellhousing area against the firewall hump and the pan against the crossmember.

Yes, we pulled a 302 with the trans but it was a pain.

The piston on the old hoist decided to stop working with the engine just clear of the mounts. Luckily. the guy who was buying it (he sold me the car then bought the motor back) had a brother along who was prepared for stuff like that and pulled out a replacement. All this in February rain in Washington.

The headers complicate things. It makes three things to install at once and my head can't deal with that. Eight spark plugs is a challenge. Bungie cording the headers to the inside of the engine bay is just what I had in mind, so I guess I'm not nuts after all...

Got my parking brake handle installed. You do have parking brakes in your race cars, don't you?

Dale

[Sean Marconette]

Hedmans have fit well on my SBF. Depending on the header size and obstacles, every car could be different as to if you can snake the header in with the engine in place. My straight 1 5/8" allowed easier install than the current step headers. Unless you have individual tubes that may make it even better.

Sean

[Run to Rund]

My cars aren't Fords, but I have always installed the headers into the engine bay first. Some headers pretty much require the starter be on the block when the engine is installed, or there will be no room to put it on later.

[Rory McNeil]

A couple of thoughts. First off, if you raise the back end of the car up high enough (rear tires at least a foot off the ground, even more if possible), with the front tires on the ground, you should be able to install the engine and trans together, without having to having the tailhousing pointed almost straight down. And with a 289/302, there is a good chance you could install the engine with the headers bolted to the heads. I realize my 85 Mustang has a wider engine compartment than a 65-70 (and possibly a 71-3), and my Mustangs a stick, but I install my 302 complete with the clutch and scattershield bolted on, along with the starter motor and the passenger side header. I have to install the drivers side header after, as the last tube has a slip joint, and wraps around the steering column shaft. If you don`t want to try installing the engine and trans together, I`ll go against the grain, and recommend putting the trans in first. Reason? Well, 1rst off, the trans would be attatched at the trans mount and crossmember, so you don`t have to worry about the trans sliding off the floor jack, onto your arm, hand, or head. Back in the 80s, I spent 5 years as an engine re & re man at a high volume engine rebuilding shop, and thats how we did it there, on the floor, with jackstands.On a Ford, don`t forget the block plate between the back of the block and the flexplate. Also, if the torque convertor retains the factory style studs, rotate the flexplate and convertor so a stud is at 6 O clock (straight down). And if it has a convertor drain plug , like stock, have the plug at the bottom, so if needed, you can make any minor movements to align the stud to the fleplate with a small screwdriver. By the way, I assume that you already have the firewall to shock tower braces removed, correct? Have fun!

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Rory McNeil

A couple of thoughts. First off, if you raise the back end of the car up high enough (rear tires at least a foot off the ground, even more if possible), with the front tires on the ground, you should be able to install the engine and trans together, without having to having the tailhousing pointed almost straight down. And with a 289/302, there is a good chance you could install the engine with the headers bolted to the heads. I realize my 85 Mustang has a wider engine compartment than a 65-70 (and possibly a 71-3), and my Mustangs a stick, but I install my 302 complete with the clutch and scattershield bolted on, along with the starter motor and the passenger side header. I have to install the drivers side header after, as the last tube has a slip joint, and wraps around the steering column shaft. If you don`t want to try installing the engine and trans together, I`ll go against the grain, and recommend putting the trans in first. Reason? Well, 1rst off, the trans would be attatched at the trans mount and crossmember, so you don`t have to worry about the trans sliding off the floor jack, onto your arm, hand, or head. Back in the 80s, I spent 5 years as an engine re & re man at a high volume engine rebuilding shop, and thats how we did it there, on the floor, with jackstands.On a Ford, don`t forget the block plate between the back of the block and the flexplate. Also, if the torque convertor retains the factory style studs, rotate the flexplate and convertor so a stud is at 6 O clock (straight down). And if it has a convertor drain plug , like stock, have the plug at the bottom, so if needed, you can make any minor movements to align the stud to the fleplate with a small screwdriver. By the way, I assume that you already have the firewall to shock tower braces removed, correct? Have fun!

Thanks for the input. The stock export brace was one of the first things to go when I bought it. I put in an aluminum export brace and shock tower piece from Total Control. Easily removed and nice looking.

Got the block plate, too. I need to inventory everything that came today from TCI and see what bolts I need to get.

Dale

[HandOverFist]

Yes, if physically possible you will never again install a trans from underneath after slipping the combo into the bay in one action. It has been a long time since I had to work off the floor and underneath the car installing/removing transmissions, but I remember it well from my younger days. We now have access to lifts and telescopic trans jacks which makes it a lot easier than bench pressing parts. You still can't beat the ease and speed of the old methods even with the latest tools tho.

[Kirk Morgan]

Very important to check torque converter free play. Different converters will have different end play. I had to machine the converter pilot back one time in a 302 based-C-4 combo.

Kirk

[Bill Harris]

If your converter does have the OEM style drive studs send it back and have them modify the lugs to use bolts instead. The pull-out of the converter is less than the length of the studs. Trying to line up the trans to the block dowels and get the studs through the flexplate at the same time is an unnecessary pain in the butt. Being able to just mate the trans to the block and then spin the converter to line up with the flexplate and install the bolts is much easier.

It also makes checking the clearances that Kirk mentioned much easier too.

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by Bill Harris

If your converter does have the OEM style drive studs send it back and have them modify the lugs to use bolts instead. The pull-out of the converter is less than the length of the studs. Trying to line up the trans to the block dowels and get the studs through the flexplate at the same time is an unnecessary pain in the butt. Being able to just mate the trans to the block and then spin the converter to line up with the flexplate and install the bolts is much easier.

It also makes checking the clearances that Kirk mentioned much easier too.

I've only given everything a quick look-see, but the converter and flex plate are from TCI, too. The converter (Streetfighter) has several longer bolts and the flex plate has a series of oversized holes so I think that's the bolt instead of stud setup. This is my first automatic. so I decided to go with known good stuff.

Dale

[Mile High]

Make sure the bellhousing and flex plate match up. They come from the same place so they should. I learned that the hard way my first time - everything installed and the starter wouldn't engage the flex plate. Had to get a different bellhousing. Test fit the headers on the stand to make sure the spark plugs will go in. I don't know if AFR moved the plugs on that head. On my Falcon I always put in the headers after the engine and trans are in from underneath. Rocking the engine from one side then the other if needed.

Jeff