Questions for the stick guys

[J&S Racing]

Wondering if the clutch is dumped closer to the floor or friction point?
Is this something that can be used to "tune" reaction time??

I've noticed some guys activating the 2 step off of the clutch pedal, any pros or cons on having the switch in the pedal or off the shaft???

[Mike Taylor 3601]

You need to set air gap,(clearance between disc,press plate,flywheel) I'm gonna assume you have sintered iron,or rag disc that does'nt have any marcel(spring)between facings,you can tell by pinching facings between fingers if has then facings will squeeze together,this is used to release smoother on street,oem disc,not good for racing.

You need to fab a stop somewhere,under pedal,in linkage etc.,first off it enables you to release clutch from same location everytime,and makes possible to adjust air gap,I have a stop that my bellcrank(Z bar) contacts and have micro switch also located there to operate line loc,or 2 step or both,having switch on linkage works better because pedal has to be pushed all the way against stop to activate,so if using clutch to shift does'nt activate if using 2 step
If using clutch to shift start w/ about .050'' air gap,have someone hold pedal down against stop then check air gap,I have made gauges out of whatever I had laying around in different thicknesses, a normal feeler gauge is usaully too short,I know long feeler gauges are available just have'nt got any for some reason. adjust linkage until get desired air gap,just be sure your pedal pusher puts against stop everytime.

You can tighten air gap down to .020''ish once you set air gap you need to start car on level surface put in gear without line loc and rev to starting line rpm/chip if car sets still your ready to go,if creeps need to increase air gap slightly.

Putting pedal against a stop will make R/T more consistent then you can adjust R/T with air gap of course less is quicker,another thing about air gap is wider gap hits tires harder,closer gap softens hit on tires, lower rpm will hit softer,higher will hit harder. My preference is running lower base and high side chip on starting line, some run more pressure use lower rpm w2step on starting line.

Mike Taylor 3601

[Sean Marconette]

What kind of clutch are you running? Most if not all stick stock and S/S cars have switches mounted at the shifter or shifter linkage and clutch pedal for the 2 step and line lock. I have fabricated brackets so the clutch pedal engages the LL and 2 step switches at the pedal clutch quadrant as my car uses a cable. At the same time a set of switches for the LL and 2 step are mounted at the shifter. When the shifter is in 1st and the clutch is depressed, the LL and 2 step are engaged. A separate floor mounted dimmer switch is used to bypass the switches on the shifter for the burnout.
This is the work around for doing a burnout in 3 gear.

As for where the clutch engages is dependent on the linkage ratio and getting the required air gap. My clutch is somewhere around the mid point when it is engaging. It is a balancing act on my setup to get enough air gap and still have adequate TOB clearance so the counter weight levers are not riding on the TOB. One adjustment affects the other.

As for mounting the switch in the pedal, personally I do not think I would like that, after all we have a much smaller area to work with in the pedal than the auto guys. And releasing the pedal clean may be an issue.

Maybe Troy Henderson will see this thread, as he has been making adjustments to dial in reaction times in his car.

Sean

[J&S Racing]

Have not decided on a clutch yet but more than likely Mcleod.
Car is a 69 Camaro we plan on running in A/S, I will start a build thread soon..
We were working on the car last night and these were a few things brought up.

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Sean,
If I understand you correctly,when you get enough free travel(clearance between TOB to press plate levers) you have trouble getting enough air gap(disc to flywheel) if that is the case, have you thought about moving the cable @ clutch fork or on pedal to change ratio so it would increase travel of TOB.
I have a assortment of holes on both sides of bellcrank and on pedal so I have a wide range of ratios on clutch linkage.
J&S,
The ratio of my linkage is slowed down right now to where my clutch engages when pedal is almost all the way out,it is so close to top about the time you think pedal is all the way out and it's not going to move it grabs.
Does'nt matter where pedal is as long as it's comfortable to you,ratio of linkage,amount of air gap changes where pedal is when it grabs,make sure you put a heavy duty return spring that pulls clutch fork back,without a spring it may not fully engage clutch,when my Mc Cleod soft locs are adjusted down to base press you can push press plate levers down with your thumb,they are too weak to push linkage,pedal,etc back,
Ratio of linkage will effect reaction time.
The way I have my micro switches when you adjust air gap,the switch is still set and does'nt have to be reset.
Instead of one micro switch use 2,one for line loc,one for 2 step on seperate circuits and then line loc and 2 step will work without having to flip any switches and only time 2 step will activate is when pedal is all the way down against stop.
I have my car so all you do is turn the key and go water,fuel pumps fans all come on w/key,have fans,water pump where can run w/key off also,and always wire gauge lights w/tail light/marker lights so if tail light is required during night racing they won't be forgotten,can't see gauges you don't forget tailights that way,my home track used to DQ for no tail light if their lights were on your tailights were supposed to be on,and that sucked to lose for no tailight.

Mike Taylor 3601

[J&S Racing]

Thanks guys!!!!
I've got a lot to learn but I cant wait to drop the clutch for the first time

Do you also have another switch for the LL for the burn out??

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Yeah have one one shifter. Hope you get to have fun,it takes a little to learn,and what works for your car.
Are you going to have Race Pak or other type of data recorder?
Mike Taylor 3601

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by J&S Racing

Thanks guys!!!!
I've got a lot to learn but I cant wait to drop the clutch for the first time

Do you also have another switch for the LL for the burn out??

Line lock is on the shifter...........
2 switches , power loop , one at clutch pedal ,one on shift arm for first gear.........clutch pedal depressed , shifter in first gear.............power supplied to 2 step. Let up on pedal or pull out of first gear and power is interrupted ( break in power loop ) to 2 step.

[J&S Racing]

Originally Posted by Mike Taylor 3601

Yeah have one one shifter. Hope you get to have fun,it takes a little to learn,and what works for your car.
Are you going to have Race Pak or other type of data recorder?
Mike Taylor 3601

At some point we plan on runing some type of data recorded. I was told it will let you know when the cluctch is needing adjustment before it's felt.

[randy wilson]

Call Steve Thompson. 641-414-6016. He has a new Rob Youngblood dual clutch for sale reasonable. We're quitting.