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#1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Massapequa, NY
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I wanted to run the super tricks with no tubes so, I sealed the rims like I was told. When I went to put in the screws to pin the slicks they start to leak. I filled them to 30 lbs and still cant get them to hold the air around the bead. Could I try running them with no screws?? I'm scared they will roll off the rim. I noticed when we were mounting the slicks, when we filled them you never hear the bead pop. So I assume they arent that tight at the bead. Any insight would be appreciated.
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#2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Otsego, Michigan
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You may want to check and make sure the screws are penetrating the bead of the tire. Had the same thing happen to me and after I replaced the old screws with new screws I solved my problem. The new screws had a sharper point so they went into the rubber instaed of holding the rubber away from the rims. just a thought. Gordy
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: York, PA
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After you mount the tires drill into the tire bead, I used a 1/8 drill bit with a piece of tape on it to keep from drilling to deep, this solved my problem.
I found that the screws would push the bead away from the rim instead of going into the tire. 1100 I/S
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Bill Belden Retired Stock Eliminator [emailSTK1100@comcast.net[/email] |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Indy
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I run 9" slicks on an 8" rim, no screws or tubes, usually if I run within a day of mounting the tires, they may slip about 1 to 2 inches on the first hit, but never move after that.
3250# car with 1.35 to 1.40 short times. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular" Dave Cook C375
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"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook NHRA N375 |
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Massapequa, NY
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Bill, I tried the drill bit this morning and it seems to have solved the problem. Are you running super tricks?
Dave, Are you running super tricks?? I know I didnt pin my centerlines and they were fine. Thanks for responding Guys |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: York, PA
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I have the centerline warriors.
One other point, I don't use the regular screws, I drill & tap the rims for 1/4-20 allen head cap screws ground and sharpened to the right length, doesn't tear up the rim 1100 I/S
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Bill Belden Retired Stock Eliminator [emailSTK1100@comcast.net[/email] |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Indy
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Mine are Weld Drag Lites, or the Cragar knock off, not sure which.
"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular" Dave Cook C375
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"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook NHRA N375 |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Defiance, OH
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Ordinary sheet metal screws create two problems. One, with a wide thread pitch screw running in and out of a soft, thin cross section, damage to the wheel is guaranteed. Two, a substantial amount of force is required for the course threads to "get a bite" into the steel cords within the tire bead. With a dull or blunt point, the result is usually the tire getting pushed away from the rim instead of the screw penetrating into the tire bead. Not to mention, sheet metal screws are quite unsightly on a set of nice aluminum wheels. There is another solution and it has been specifically designed for this application. It involves using a stainless steel threaded insert that presses into the rim along with a 12-28, button head, alloy screw with a fully threaded point that provides improved tire bead penetration. You can see what I'm talking about at www.kaizen-ms.com/products.html. Also, on the tech info page you will find details on insert and screw selection criteria (there are three different O.D.'s to choose from on the inserts and two different screw lengths). The installation instructions can also be found there. Take care.
Chris Cogan www.kaizen-ms.com
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Chris Cogan |
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