Online source for electrical connectors

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by GallopinGhost

Ed, I appreciate the info. Do you have a p/n or application for the solenoid?

Early Ford (like 1960s1970s) have a 5/16" or 3/8" stud on each side for positive Batt cable, and the cable to the starter on the other side. Some have one small terminal that connects the opposite stud when powered by the key or starter button. If the terminals on the GM solenoid are jumppered, that spins the starter. If the Ford solenoid you get has two small terminals, it's not hard to find which one energizes it. One will, the other will not.

[Lew Silverman]

Summit Remote Mounted Solenoid - #G1750. Comes with all the wiring you need.


https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ibanner=SREPD5



I've got one if you need to look at it, Brian. Do you come down to the car show at Hampton Roads Harley-Davidson on US-17?


Lew

[Dave Gantz]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Brian, the way I have done it for the past twenty years is to jumper those terminals on the solenoid, use a Ford remote solenoid mounted in an easy to reach place on the inner fender, or firewall. To disconnect for pulling the engine, etc, just pull the starter cable from the solenoid. The small wire to the original solenoid, of course, now goes to the new Ford solenoid. Easy to get the short cable off the Ford solenoid to pull the starter, or engine. Has worked well for me, for many years. Hope this helps.

Putting the solenoid on the starter (and down in the heat) wasn't one of "The General's" better ideas, for sure.

[GallopinGhost]

Thanks Lew for the link. I haven't been for a long time, PM me next time you go, if it's on friday, It'll be next week before I can make it.


I think what I'll do on my car is list the electrical loads, then make a wiring diagram. Hopefully on the web somewhere is a "typical" diagram for a drag car that I can modify.

[GTOMayhem]

Originally Posted by GallopinGhost

Thanks Lew for the link. I haven't been for a long time, PM me next time you go, if it's on friday, It'll be next week before I can make it.


I think what I'll do on my car is list the electrical loads, then make a wiring diagram. Hopefully on the web somewhere is a "typical" diagram for a drag car that I can modify.

If you find a diagram, please post a link.


Rick Thomason
GTOMayhem

[Sean Marconette]

K&R Switch panel kit has all labeled wiring, connectors, heat shrink tubing and tie wraps, and is worth the money. They also have a wiring diagram if you need one.

Sean

[GallopinGhost]

Thanks Sean, I'll post what I come up with, should be starting in a week or so.

[Ed Wright]

No offense meant, but you don't have to buy any "kits" for something that simple.

[Rat Raceway]

Edit

[Eman]

3 schools of thought when it comes to wiring GM starters. First is do it like the General designed. ARC recommends wiring like this and has their panels set up with high amperage switches. The downside is GM used 10 or 12 ga wire since the solenoid got hot and amperage draw went higher. This usually doesn't play well with micro switch most shifters use for a NS switch.
Second method uses either the old style or new style Ford solenoids. You use a heavy jumper on the GM starter solenoid and use the Ford solenoid to switch the main battery cable. this allows a smaller wire as a trigger since you're using the Ford solenoid as a relay and it doesn't require high amperage and you can mount it in a cool spot. Down side is with a permanent magnet starter motor it can at times cause starter run on and you have another set of contacts and voltage drop to the starter windings.
Third method is running the main cable to the starter solenoid with no jumper. Use a heavy duty relay or a Ford solenoid to switch the solenoid trigger wire. this way you have low amperage through your starter switch and your NS switch and then run a 10ga wire from the relay/solenoid to the starter solenoid.
They all work.