Wheel Studs

[Bobby DiDomenico]

Originally Posted by Larry Hill

Put big studs in and forget about it!

Problem with that is stock wheels no longer can be mounted.

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by Bobby DiDomenico

Problem with that is stock wheels no longer can be mounted.

Sometimes!
I can still mount my stock SS wheels with the extended Wheel Studs.

As for new studs.
Mine would not stay at 85# after installing them.
Re-Torqued them to 110# until the Torque Wrench indicated they were tight.

Today taking previous advice mounted new M/T Front Runners and Slicks.
Torqued rears to 100# and fronts to #85#.

[Larry Hill]

My bad, I thought it was a problem on a race car.

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by Larry Hill

My bad, I thought it was a problem on a race car.

You correct! It was the 95 Impala SS.
Just can mount the Stock SS wheels and tires even with Long Studs to store the car over the winter.

[Dave Gantz]

Originally Posted by Dan Fahey

You correct! It was the 95 Impala SS.
Just can mount the Stock SS wheels and tires even with Long Studs to store the car over the winter.

Maybe Larry is talking about bigger diameter studs.

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by Dave Gantz

Maybe Larry is talking about bigger diameter studs.

Yup missed that..
To do that would have to Machine the Wheels for Larger Studs.
Going to a stronger higher strength Stud should be enough!

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by Dan Fahey

Yup missed that..
To do that would have to Machine the Wheels for Larger Studs.
Going to a stronger higher strength Stud should be enough!

Which would be the logical thing to do.

[Dan Fahey]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

Which would be the logical thing to do.

I have Moser Wheel Studs!
That good enough?
D

[james schaechter]

I really think something is not right with the wheel vs the lug nut perhaps. So what if the shank was too long and bottoming on the stud ever so slightly? The result would be a wheel that was not being clamped as tightly as you think. It could allow the wheel to work on the studs and eventually break them. Maybe this came up before. You could face the shank on the lug nuts to shorten them up a touch if they were close.

[Bobby DiDomenico]

Originally Posted by james schaechter

I really think something is not right with the wheel vs the lug nut perhaps. So what if the shank was too long and bottoming on the stud ever so slightly? The result would be a wheel that was not being clamped as tightly as you think. It could allow the wheel to work on the studs and eventually break them. Maybe this came up before. You could face the shank on the lug nuts to shorten them up a touch if they were close.

Had to do that with some lugs that bottomed out on the hub and brake drum Jim. Measured the wheel thickness and a shop with a coolant cutting wheel shortened them for me. Big diameter studs were not an option because they would have limited the wheels we could throw on the car.

Seems something here is preventing the wheel from being clamped tight.