S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle

mike natoli · 05-18-2009, 10:05 AM

How can you tell if these springs have failed? My car is a 2975lb with driver and fuel. It was breaking the 60' clocks with the rear tires and now having a real hard time just getting the car to hook. Rear tires have around 40 passes 9 x 30 hozzier radials 22psi, shocks are qa1 12way adjustable on the tightest setting, Both Springs are clamped in the front with two clamps rear segment unclampped no snubber 50/50 weight balance. 2800lb a body s/s springs. Looking at the left side spring from the u clamps to the first clamp, the spring looks as though it is starting to arch slightly the other way and has rust powder building up. These spring are around 4 years old. My thoughts is this left spring has failed it just has not broken yet. Has anyone else witnessed how these springs degragate and what are the symptoms. Also during burnout seems as though the tires are out of balance with a vibration.

Chuck Beach · 05-18-2009, 11:28 AM

I ran the same 002 & 003 SS springs on my stocker for over 10 years, never had a problem. But that was the old SS springs, the new ones are not as good in quality, you may have to take them apart and re-arch them ...

Bill Edgeworth · 05-18-2009, 12:22 PM

I have not run the SS springs for years on my Duster. I changed to the Caltrac/Monoleaf set up. I guess one way you could tell if their going is to check to see if your pinion angle has changed. I have heard of people just buying one new spring, (the one with the most leafs) and then moving the worn heavier spring over to the side that uses the lighter spring.
I don’t know if I would do that myself, rather not put the car into the wall for the sake of saving $100.
The wheel hop problem in the burnout could possibly be a shock problem or the springs getting real soft. If I recall isn’t the 2800# spring the lightest ones they make? If you have a car that can trip the 60’ clock on the back tires you may be producing enough power to wear those springs out real fast. You may want a stiffer spring and a looser shock setting. How is the separation at launch? Are your spring eye bushings okay?
Can you see a change in the static position of the shackles?
Also if I recall correctly the old Direct Connection Chassis manual had all kinds of tips and tricks for tuning the SS springs.

Jim Wahl · 05-18-2009, 07:02 PM

Steve Bagwell used to tell me after 50-60 passes the springs go south. He would never reuse them, just installed new ones. He could afford to do that though! Why don't you just go to the Cal Tracs and solve the problem. They are lighter and work great! Jim

George Mirza · 05-18-2009, 07:24 PM

If the car is starting to squat when it leaves they are shot. It's not how old they are, its how many passes you have on them. Chuck is right, the old springs are much better, The new Mexican ones are only good for 200-300 runs. Spend the $ on the Cal tracs, I'm about to.

Bill Edgeworth · 05-18-2009, 07:51 PM

Just a few things to be aware of if changing to the Caltrac system;
First off it all fits wonderfully just make sure you have your ducks in a row before you call they will want to know rear weight and desired ride height. My duster has inboard springs and if you have this set up you need to let them know as it’s a special kit to fit the Caltrac hinge inside the front spring hanger box.
Also you will have to make a major adjustment in pinion angle. If I recall the SS springs want something like 5-7 degrees down on the pinion angle where the Caltracs you only want something like 1 degree.
I did the inboard spring kit and the Caltracs at the same time so I cut the old spring perches off and bolted the whole thing together with new perches, set the pinion angle and then welded the perches. IMHO a lot better than messing around with wedges.
With the inboard springs, Caltrac system, and wheel tubs I ended up with enough room to fit the small MT SS radial

mike natoli · 05-21-2009, 08:32 AM

Thanks for all your input. I forgot that I have a brand new pair of springs that I had purchased years ago for my sons car with only a few passes on them 12.00 car. Should be in good shape. I'm going to swap them just to verify. I would like to invest in the caltrac system. I too have the springs inboard so the need for the special kit. Years ago I made the mistake by installing a glass deck lid and bumper and had to add a weight box to get the car to hook 60#s. With the caltracks maybe I CAN REMOVE MY WEIGHT BOX. I agree with you not to use wedges and set pinion angle and weld new ones in. What do you mean the small S/S radial? What size? I guess it will be a whole new learning curve. You all have been a lot of help. Anything else you may have thought of I may run into would be appreciated.
Best Regards,
Mike

herbjr · 05-21-2009, 11:38 AM

You might be looking at a tortion bar problem. I have a friend who had a 3000 set of headers built, the genuis header builder pointed the collector directly at the tortion bar. 4 runs later the car quit working. The heat cooked the tortion bar. Just a thought.

05-18-2009, 10:05 AM	#1
mike natoli Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Valley Stream mini Gasoline Alley & Div I Posts: 100 Likes: 24 Liked 51 Times in 15 Posts	S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle How can you tell if these springs have failed? My car is a 2975lb with driver and fuel. It was breaking the 60' clocks with the rear tires and now having a real hard time just getting the car to hook. Rear tires have around 40 passes 9 x 30 hozzier radials 22psi, shocks are qa1 12way adjustable on the tightest setting, Both Springs are clamped in the front with two clamps rear segment unclampped no snubber 50/50 weight balance. 2800lb a body s/s springs. Looking at the left side spring from the u clamps to the first clamp, the spring looks as though it is starting to arch slightly the other way and has rust powder building up. These spring are around 4 years old. My thoughts is this left spring has failed it just has not broken yet. Has anyone else witnessed how these springs degragate and what are the symptoms. Also during burnout seems as though the tires are out of balance with a vibration.

05-18-2009, 11:28 AM	#2
Chuck Beach Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Delaware, Ohio Posts: 664 Likes: 12 Liked 59 Times in 13 Posts	Re: S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle I ran the same 002 & 003 SS springs on my stocker for over 10 years, never had a problem. But that was the old SS springs, the new ones are not as good in quality, you may have to take them apart and re-arch them ... __________________ Chuck Beach 3340 STK

05-18-2009, 12:22 PM	#3
Bill Edgeworth Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 258 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle I have not run the SS springs for years on my Duster. I changed to the Caltrac/Monoleaf set up. I guess one way you could tell if their going is to check to see if your pinion angle has changed. I have heard of people just buying one new spring, (the one with the most leafs) and then moving the worn heavier spring over to the side that uses the lighter spring. I don’t know if I would do that myself, rather not put the car into the wall for the sake of saving $100. The wheel hop problem in the burnout could possibly be a shock problem or the springs getting real soft. If I recall isn’t the 2800# spring the lightest ones they make? If you have a car that can trip the 60’ clock on the back tires you may be producing enough power to wear those springs out real fast. You may want a stiffer spring and a looser shock setting. How is the separation at launch? Are your spring eye bushings okay? Can you see a change in the static position of the shackles? Also if I recall correctly the old Direct Connection Chassis manual had all kinds of tips and tricks for tuning the SS springs. __________________ Bill Edgeworth 6471 STK

05-18-2009, 07:02 PM	#4
Jim Wahl Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Central Florida Posts: 5,841 Likes: 626 Liked 672 Times in 121 Posts	Re: S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle Steve Bagwell used to tell me after 50-60 passes the springs go south. He would never reuse them, just installed new ones. He could afford to do that though! Why don't you just go to the Cal Tracs and solve the problem. They are lighter and work great! Jim __________________ Jim Wahl....NHRA #2239 S/SS - IHRA # 8 Stock, D2 Stock Champion (forever I guess) 2019 Baby Gators Stock Champion 2009 D2 National Open Stock Champion 1981 D2 West Palm Beach LDRS SS Runner Up Past President, Southern Stock / Super Stock Association. SSSSA Forum Moderator

05-18-2009, 07:24 PM	#5
George Mirza Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: North Attleborough Ma. Posts: 522 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle If the car is starting to squat when it leaves they are shot. It's not how old they are, its how many passes you have on them. Chuck is right, the old springs are much better, The new Mexican ones are only good for 200-300 runs. Spend the $ on the Cal tracs, I'm about to.

05-18-2009, 07:51 PM	#6
Bill Edgeworth Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Tacoma, WA Posts: 258 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle Just a few things to be aware of if changing to the Caltrac system; First off it all fits wonderfully just make sure you have your ducks in a row before you call they will want to know rear weight and desired ride height. My duster has inboard springs and if you have this set up you need to let them know as it’s a special kit to fit the Caltrac hinge inside the front spring hanger box. Also you will have to make a major adjustment in pinion angle. If I recall the SS springs want something like 5-7 degrees down on the pinion angle where the Caltracs you only want something like 1 degree. I did the inboard spring kit and the Caltracs at the same time so I cut the old spring perches off and bolted the whole thing together with new perches, set the pinion angle and then welded the perches. IMHO a lot better than messing around with wedges. With the inboard springs, Caltrac system, and wheel tubs I ended up with enough room to fit the small MT SS radial __________________ Bill Edgeworth 6471 STK

05-21-2009, 08:32 AM	#7
mike natoli Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Valley Stream mini Gasoline Alley & Div I Posts: 100 Likes: 24 Liked 51 Times in 15 Posts	Re: S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle Thanks for all your input. I forgot that I have a brand new pair of springs that I had purchased years ago for my sons car with only a few passes on them 12.00 car. Should be in good shape. I'm going to swap them just to verify. I would like to invest in the caltrac system. I too have the springs inboard so the need for the special kit. Years ago I made the mistake by installing a glass deck lid and bumper and had to add a weight box to get the car to hook 60#s. With the caltracks maybe I CAN REMOVE MY WEIGHT BOX. I agree with you not to use wedges and set pinion angle and weld new ones in. What do you mean the small S/S radial? What size? I guess it will be a whole new learning curve. You all have been a lot of help. Anything else you may have thought of I may run into would be appreciated. Best Regards, Mike

05-21-2009, 11:38 AM	#8
herbjr VIP Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Greensboro NC Posts: 1,027 Likes: 1 Liked 83 Times in 32 Posts	Re: S/S Mopar leaf springs Life Cycle You might be looking at a tortion bar problem. I have a friend who had a 3000 set of headers built, the genuis header builder pointed the collector directly at the tortion bar. 4 runs later the car quit working. The heat cooked the tortion bar. Just a thought.