Woodfin's SS GT/TB construction series

[Dragsinger]

The Super 10 weighs 2760 less driver.

Aluminum head small block, fiberglass hood, gutted doors, one factory seat, aluminum custom dash.

[Dragsinger]

It has run as fast as 6.03 in present trim.

[jbt352]

Larry,
So you feel with the correct bar placement we may not need to run any weight?
I have been told that 4 links work better with higher hp cars?
Do you see us having problems with only being in the 500hp range.
We will have the room for up to a 14X32 tire if need.
I know there are a lot of people going faster then we will be with leaf springs and cal tracs and smaller tires.

[Dragsinger]

352,

you will need to experiment. There is to reason to carry extra weight if it is not needed.

And about a lower powered four-link. I thank it is always OK to have a four-link no matter the power level.

With your reference to Cal-Tracks, the geometry of that is very much like a four-link. The spring front attachment being the upper bar point and the Cal-Track the lower bar point where those two lines would cross.

[duke66]

My son's 385 is only around 550HP. He has a best of 1.36, 60 foot and 6.36, 1/8 mile. He ran 10.22/131 in Topeka. His truck is 2850 lbs with him in it. That's with 4.86 rear and 13.5 x 29.5 tires.
The truck is 59% front and 41% rear. Only 5 gallon fuel cell and12 volt red top battery in the back of the bed.
We are switching to 5.14's and 13.5/31 tires. Our local track is usually a little iffy,so just putting a little more rubber under it.

[jbt352]

Duke, Nice picture. I like what I am hearing on the percentage weight front to rear. I am also curious on how much pre-load is being run. I am sure a lot of people have put them on 4 corner scales.

[Dragsinger]

speaking of pre-load. My experience shows that when coupled with an anti-roll bar [which I highly recommend] only a very small amount,if any, pre-load is required.

When working with chassis adjustments be sure to move in very small amounts. 1/2 flat on a four-link bar is enough to show a change.

And speaking of scales [and this is personal form my experience and may not reflect the experience of others] I have experimented with scale adjustments but the car/truck will show you what it wants.

The last adjustments I make on a new package before going to the track is on the chassis table with driver or driver weight in the seat. I will adjust 1/2 flat in the right upper bar[with anti-roll bar disconnected] the just take the slack out of the anti-roll bar links [turning the links in the direction to make them longer]

[duke66]

Our truck was scaled before it left the shop and we made it as equal as we could, particularly the rear. Absolutely NO preload. We have coilovers at all 4 corner, so we worked hard to get as even as we could. We have an anti-roll bar and it is set neutral as is 4 link. Truck goes down track like it's on rails.
Make sure you have a good alignment on the front, too. We have 2" dropped front spindles. We have tubular upper control arms from Speedway Motors, Part # 91034393-L . They are listed for the G-body and are the 1/2" longer than stock units. They correct the camber. Use the extended upper ball joints such as Proforged 101-10021. These correct the ball joint angle so they don't pop apart. If you use these control arms you will need travel limiters also.
Go to Tim McAmis' website and watch his videos several times to help understand setting up 4 link. I wouldn't use the setup he uses, unless you have about 2500HP.

[jbt352]

Duke/Larry,
Thanks for all of the info.
Larry I pm'd you my 4 link kit. Not sure if you got it.

[duke66]

Yes, I got it and printed out for study. Our setup is close to that. Thanks