Setting up Cal Tracs

[Troy Henderson]

Thanks that's probably a shot from 2008 when I could drive

John sells a great product and if he says his shocks will work then you can trust him.

His shocks work basically the same as your QA1's when I looked them up though so I don't know how much you would be gaining? They are both set with a firm compression and adjustable rebound (extension) to control axle separation. Maybe someone else could chime in.

http://www.qa1.net/qa1_motorsports/d.../r-series.html

http://calvertracing.com/9way.php

What you gain with spending the extra money on some Afcos is full control on bump and rebound. And if you car falls outside of the range of the shock they can be re-valved to fit your needs. They're also rebuildable. It's all my family has used but I think Strange makes good stuff also.

Take some video of the car if you can maybe the forum could offer some help. The only thing more fun then playing with your race car is someone elses..lol

[Scott P3274]

Great car! I wish I had a stocker. My Nova would be a good candidate but a friend of mine told me to make it into a competitive Stock Eliminator car all I would need is a pile of money about waist high...

I will try to get some video and post it so you and others can take a look and make some suggestions. It is a very fun car to drive and I want to put the electronics on it to go 10.90 racing. That just means I really need to get the suspension worked out.. I have seen Martin Ganjoin do it so I would like to try it on 9" tires too.

Thanks for your help!!!!

[philbilly]

On my 283 car. I set up using this chart. Of course I want to hit the tires the hardest. Lol. I made my first run and it is driving right real hard. Instead of making passenger side longer I shortens the bar on the driver side After a few runs I got the car going straight but on the shift the car seems to dart right. Just on the jerk of the shift. Do I just need to twist a bit more Or should I take some of the bite out of it? Bars in bottom hole and no pre load it never done this.

[Scott P3274]

Hi Troy, I was able to do some testing with the adjustment to the front shocks and travel limiter. It didn't go well. I took out the travel limiter and it improved but it spins as soon as the front starts to rise. I then installed double adjustable QA1 stocker stars on the rear. I adjusted them as you said, all the way tight on compression and a couple clics from tight on extension. It still blows the tires off with the trans brake. Foot braking, it spins as well but not as bad.
Any other recomendations for the trans brake set up?
Should I go to a much closer to 50/50 (slightly tight) set up for foot braking?

Your help is greatly appreciated.
Scott

[Todd Hoven]

Try backing off on the extension adjustment on the rear shocks. Sounds like the rear is a bit tight. Have somebody take a video of the car and watch it. That may help you

[Troy Henderson]

Originally Posted by philbilly

On my 283 car. I set up using this chart. Of course I want to hit the tires the hardest. Lol. I made my first run and it is driving right real hard. Instead of making passenger side longer I shortens the bar on the driver side After a few runs I got the car going straight but on the shift the car seems to dart right. Just on the jerk of the shift. Do I just need to twist a bit more Or should I take some of the bite out of it? Bars in bottom hole and no pre load it never done this.

Phillbilly the Driver bar needs to be set at 0 preload. Add 2 flats of preload to the passenger side until it drives straight.

[Jeff Lee]

I'd be hard pressed to identify a situation where you want the compression at max stiffness on a double adjustable rear shock. Try it in the middle for compression.
On extension, start in the middle and progressively adjust towards a stiffer setting. Bad tracks need the extension softer, great tracks can take it stiffer.
Once you have the extension figured out, then you can work on the compression.
But no matter what shock valving you have, get rid of those 26" slicks! Taller is better.

[Troy Henderson]

Originally Posted by Scott P3274

Hi Troy, I was able to do some testing with the adjustment to the front shocks and travel limiter. It didn't go well. I took out the travel limiter and it improved but it spins as soon as the front starts to rise. I then installed double adjustable QA1 stocker stars on the rear. I adjusted them as you said, all the way tight on compression and a couple clics from tight on extension. It still blows the tires off with the trans brake. Foot braking, it spins as well but not as bad.
Any other recomendations for the trans brake set up?
Should I go to a much closer to 50/50 (slightly tight) set up for foot braking?

Your help is greatly appreciated.
Scott

Scott did you measure to make sure you have 5" of extension for the front AND rear?

Is the front and rear suspension nice and free to move with the shocks unbolted? This can cause a lot of grief if any thing is over tightened and hasn't been greased in a while.

You're running a bias tire? Radials will need the rear extension loosened up more to work right like Todd mentioned. If will take a few hits to find the right settings on the shocks. Just keep adjusting until it responds.

Some video would sure help, good luck!

[Troy Henderson]

Originally Posted by Jeff Lee

I'd be hard pressed to identify a situation where you want the compression at max stiffness on a double adjustable rear shock. Try it in the middle for compression.
On extension, start in the middle and progressively adjust towards a stiffer setting. Bad tracks need the extension softer, great tracks can take it stiffer.
Once you have the extension figured out, then you can work on the compression.
But no matter what shock valving you have, get rid of those 26" slicks! Taller is better.

Good advice Jeff. The reason I like the compression fairly stiff if for a leaf spring car. They separate a lot when they leave which creates a bunch of stored energy that can pull the wheel back up too quick. This applies the most to a stick car. Loosen it some for a trans brake car, and even more for a footbrake car.

[Scott P3274]

Originally Posted by Troy Henderson

Scott did you measure to make sure you have 5" of extension for the front AND rear?

Is the front and rear suspension nice and free to move with the shocks unbolted? This can cause a lot of grief if any thing is over tightened and hasn't been greased in a while.

You're running a bias tire? Radials will need the rear extension loosened up more to work right like Todd mentioned. If will take a few hits to find the right settings on the shocks. Just keep adjusting until it responds.

Some video would sure help, good luck!

Troy, the suspension is pretty loose. The rear fully extends the 21" shocks that I just put on the rear. The front drops at least 5". I will measure exactly how much for both. Do you measure the amount of lift to the point the front tire leaves the ground with a jack?

The last setting I used was full tight on compression and 8 clicks from tight on extension. I will keep adjusting one motion at a time until it starts to respond.

THANK YOU for your help!