Suspension help

[Greg Reimer 7376]

Chevelle Wagon, the more you described your activities,the more info you gave to help yourself. I have a '68 Chevelle wagon,327/250-245 O/SA car, it's the red one in the Tony Janes Race Cars photo section. That thing drives itself. It's the easiest car to drive I've ever seen. Make sure the wheelbase is the same both sides, 0 to +1/2 on the camber with the car on the ground, 1/8 total toe with the car on the ground,0" with the front end 4" up, and 2 1/2 to 3 degrees caster will make this car go very straight. Roll bar shouldn't have changed anything, but the car should have been on its wheels when the bar was welded in.Floor pans being replaced shouldn't have changed anything. Our wagon has had new pans. The floor is isolated from the frame with the factory body bushings. Make sure these are all good and tight.These cars are pretty easy to make work. What do you suppose that the 455 Vista Cruiser guys went through with those things corkscrewing into the night? Good luck,keep us posted.

[Chevellewagon]

Originally Posted by Greg Reimer 7376

Chevelle Wagon, the more you described your activities,the more info you gave to help yourself. I have a '68 Chevelle wagon,327/250-245 O/SA car, it's the red one in the Tony Janes Race Cars photo section. That thing drives itself. It's the easiest car to drive I've ever seen. Make sure the wheelbase is the same both sides, 0 to +1/2 on the camber with the car on the ground, 1/8 total toe with the car on the ground,0" with the front end 4" up, and 2 1/2 to 3 degrees caster will make this car go very straight. Roll bar shouldn't have changed anything, but the car should have been on its wheels when the bar was welded in.Floor pans being replaced shouldn't have changed anything. Our wagon has had new pans. The floor is isolated from the frame with the factory body bushings. Make sure these are all good and tight.These cars are pretty easy to make work. What do you suppose that the 455 Vista Cruiser guys went through with those things corkscrewing into the night? Good luck,keep us posted.

Thank you for the specs and the help Greg. It may not get done right away with money being tight but I will keep you guys up dated when I can. As I said earlier you guys are very helpful with the info and I really appreciate all your help.
I plan to check with Jim Boudreau about the set up as I believe he is the one who did the most work on it after purchasing it from W A Lee.

Phil Daly

[Alan Roehrich]

Originally Posted by Jim Hanig

Rick they check the chevelle i drove at houston said alfs stuff is not legal. Jim Hanig

The other day, someone posted that Alf had an updated version that he had an NHRA letter of approval for. The previous version was legal for a while, but NHRA revised their position and forced a change, I think the grace period was over the first of this month, or will be over as of the first of next month.

I've heard conflicting reports, did they tell you specifically what was actually illegal about it?

By the way, I looked several times over the last couple of days, and cannot find the post about Alf's new NHRA approved stuff. It had a picture of an NHRA approval letter. It was hereon the boards for a while, but now it is either gone or I just can't find it.

[blasttime]

Recently went through my 69 chevelle ss new ball joints, control arm bushings. Had 4 whell alinment done, discovered rear end 1/8 out of square corected. Front end was alined as Greg Reimer told you. Thanks to Barrie Frame and alinment. Can push 3700 lbs. 15 psi in slicks with one hand. Good luck

[Greg Barsamian]

Originally Posted by Alan Roehrich

The other day, someone posted that Alf had an updated version that he had an NHRA letter of approval for. The previous version was legal for a while, but NHRA revised their position and forced a change, I think the grace period was over the first of this month, or will be over as of the first of next month.

I've heard conflicting reports, did they tell you specifically what was actually illegal about it?

By the way, I looked several times over the last couple of days, and cannot find the post about Alf's new NHRA approved stuff. It had a picture of an NHRA approval letter. It was hereon the boards for a while, but now it is either gone or I just can't find it.

Alf now has a NHRA APPROVED system.
He's doing his best to build V3 kits as soon as he can.

If you're one of his customers, he'll tell you "specifically" what needs to be done!

[69stocker]

http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com

# 1471 - Super Swaybar / Anti-Roll system for '68-'72 GM A-Body with GM 10 or 12 bolt housing (3" axle tubes):

[Mike Jones]

I bought Wojo`s Wine Wagon( a clone to yours)
it sits down on the left front
no air in the bag in the RR
goes straight
Would love to talk
Mike
A114 O;P/SA

[SSGN]

Originally Posted by 72Malibu

www.hrpartsnstuff.com bolt on antiroll bar

X2 and this car hooks in a car wash. LOTS of products for these cars and I think the HR stuff is reasonable and works deep into the 8's. I would use the fixed lowers and uppers with the urethane bushings. Keep the shocks simple I have seen lots of guys spend $250 a shock and pick up nada. Paul (the owner) is always helpful

Kevin

[philbilly]

I just stumble upon this thread and i have a question about front suspension. we have a 68 chevelle 396 325 car and when we are stalling on the starting line the front wants to raise how can that be cured?? The more the stall the higher the front fender goes on the hit it does great we would just like to have the front settled as we are staging

[HP HUNTER]

Originally Posted by philbilly

I just stumble upon this thread and i have a question about front suspension. we have a 68 chevelle 396 325 car and when we are stalling on the starting line the front wants to raise how can that be cured?? The more the stall the higher the front fender goes on the hit it does great we would just like to have the front settled as we are staging

Converter