Improving 60' times, third gen f-body

[Kevin Panzino]

Agree with most of what has been said.
And Yes, you Need way way way more gear, and more converter for sure.

[TonyB83]

Thank you all for the replies.

the converter and gear sound like the makings of a street/strip car and not a bracket car. Tell us about the engine...heads, manifold, camshaft, compression, etc.

3rd gen f body bracket cars weighing 3100-3200 lbs. with driver run easy mid to low 10's with nothing special small blocks, power glides, 8" converters, 4.56 gear and 10" tires

Originally Posted by MAURICE BLENDHEIM

Tony… What engine displacement, cam, intake, head and carburetor? Does the TH400 have stock rotating internals? What determined your choice on 3.73's. MB.

383ci, Comp XE288HR cam, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap, Holley 650 (modified, flows 740) AFR 195 heads (ported, 2.05 valves), 10.9:1 compression. Stock trans internals, just upgraded soft parts. Went with a 3.73 mostly because it's street driven but I wouldn't be opposed to going to a 4.10.

[1320racer]

so it is a street/strip car.

That said, it's all about compromises, what you are willing to sacrifice in drivability for quciker ET's but without question you need more converter and more gear and the right converter from the right manufacturer won't give up any street manners.

[njk53]

I think the 3:73 gear and converter are the issue. I would think a converter in the 4800-5000 range and a 4:56 gear would do the trick. What RPM are you turning the motor through the lights? Depending on trap RPM you may be able to stand even more gear.

[Greg Hill]

1.44 with a 3.73 gear, stock 400 and a tight converter is pretty good. A low first gear trans (2.75) would help quite a bit, maybe a 200 or a 200r4 with overdrive since it's a street/strip car then you could use more rear end gear.

[Doug Blackley]

Going to the 4.56 gear will allow a taller tire and help the launch a bunch. And the 56 gear isn't that bad to live with on 5he street either.

[MAURICE BLENDHEIM]

Tony...4.10 - 4.56 -4.88's alone should put you into the low 1.40's maybe high 1.30's if your lucky. Faster by adding something like a 4000-5000 convertor, but you may sacrifice the street car thing? Your intake and cam will become a factor the closer you come to 7000 RPM. Hope this helps...MB.

[TonyB83]

Thanks again for all the replies.

Consistency is what I'm after here. While I'm not opposed to a gear and converter change, I'm more interested in suspension tuning at the moment. Do you guys think I'd benefit from either coilovers or adjustable shocks? I see a lot of guys on here who are running well with the Lakewood 90/10's and 50/50's but I also see a LOT of you who have gone to coilovers or adjustable shocks. What is the determining factor here? I'll admit, I can't justify the $1500 for the Santhuff stuff but I'm open to recommendations.

As a side note, I measured the angle of my LCA's last night. They are in the bottom hole of the lca bracket ( I know you guys hate them) and are at +5*. Moving them to the next higher hole looks like it would give them a negative angle and put the IC behind the car.

[njk53]

I think your suspension set up seems to be good and going to high dollar adjustable shocks and coil overs will only get you marginal benefit. As stated by Doug try a 4:56 or similar gear with with a taller tire and see what happens.