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Old 10-17-2012, 11:30 PM   #21
Adger Smith
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Default Re: E85

Do any of you know anyone that took an Alky carb and modified it for E-85?
I've got a small cu in (316) old Modified engine (short block). I've thought about putting in a bracket car and using E-85. The original heads are gone and the heads I have for it will keep the compression around the 12-1 mark. The carb is a 750 QF alky. Any ideas/suggestions?
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:26 PM   #22
drgrcr1156
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Default Re: E85

How due you manage the E85 corrosiveness? Or is not as bad as some people have perceived.

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Old 10-23-2012, 07:32 PM   #23
billy leber
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Default Re: E85

Methanol is corrosive . E-85 , which is ethanol , is not corrosive. Ive left it in the carb and the rest of the system all winter with no sign of a problem.
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:12 PM   #24
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Default Re: E85

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adger Smith View Post
Do any of you know anyone that took an Alky carb and modified it for E-85?
I've got a small cu in (316) old Modified engine (short block). I've thought about putting in a bracket car and using E-85. The original heads are gone and the heads I have for it will keep the compression around the 12-1 mark. The carb is a 750 QF alky. Any ideas/suggestions?

Thinking you should be able to do it as you need to see what there is for emulsion and banjo's/boosters..
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:18 PM   #25
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Default Re: E85

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Originally Posted by billy leber View Post
Methanol is corrosive . E-85 , which is ethanol , is not corrosive. Ive left it in the carb and the rest of the system all winter with no sign of a problem.

Careful with that statement as it made some of my plastic handles on my screwdrivers soft...
For me I run my carb dry after i am done for the day and just before it starts to stall I spray engine stor down the carb
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:03 PM   #26
jim hensley
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Default Re: E85

many never drain the carb and have no problems so I have been told. The corrosive culprit is usually water, as E85 will absorb water, so care must be taken there. I borrowed a carb from a guy once, and the metering blocks had gunk all over them and the inside of the carb evidentally from sitting, had to clean it out before using it, but I have had no problems with mine. But, If I am going to let the car sit for a few weeks or so, I go ahead and drain the carb. I always plug the cell vent after every race just to be safe. When changing jets will occasionally spray with WD-40 and clean. Don't forget to watch your air bleeds from plugging up too.
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:05 PM   #27
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Default Re: E85

So I have a drum with about 20-30 gallons left in it. Its in my heated garage, any issues with storage for the off season?
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:13 PM   #28
billy leber
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Default Re: E85

I buy a drum (take a 55 g drum to the gas station and filler up ) before winter so Im good to go in the spring , no problems . Seal it up tight obviously .
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #29
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Default Re: E85

If the fuel tests in the 70s, which most off season spring and winter blends do, is it still able to be used in 15-16.1 engines?
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:18 AM   #30
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Default Re: E85

Maybe I can help a little here. I've messed with E85 for a bit now, put together a few Dominators and converted a 1.500 venturi Demon. We did some dyno testing with a 358, ran over 30 gallons with testing. There are some things that are different with E85/ethanol over gas and methanol, the viscosity of the fuel is quite a bit higher than both. So far we have seen like one of the above posts that it does not like large emulsion bleeds or air bleeds in the mains, we've seen improvements with e-bleeds as small as .014". 4150 carbs 750 up are usually in the 90's for jets, 1050 Dominators with no skirts are around .145, .160's for an 1150 and .170's for a 1250, all 2 circuit. The 1050 would probably be best with mainwells between gas and methanol, but for bracket racing works fine with 4150 2 circuit methanol blocks. The 1250 must have methanol 2 circuit blocks, booster pins, and banjo's to get sufficient fuel, you might be able to get away with smaller with a 3 circuit setup, but I'm not crazy about 3 circuit with the exception of methanol.

In Florida we have not seen a change in %, everything has been from 84-89%. If you calibrate for the summer fuel it will be a little rich on the winter blend, some just leave it there and coupled with cooler weather will likely be no problem for most.

As far as compression, we've run up to a 14.5 to 1 SB2 with no issues at all. I plan to try it with my 15.5 to 1 SB2, likely after the first of the year when I can drive again (open heart surgery in May). With anything over about 14.5 to 1 I would caution to back the timing a degree or two from the gas tune, sneak back to it as long as all looks safe. Under 14 to 1 you will be hard pressed to hurt anything NA, my 13.2 to 1 427 SBC ran so lean in early testing due to a bad regulator it was surging, never hurt anything. The cooling effects like with methanol help out.

Adger, on your 750 measure the booster legs. If they are .170-.180 they will work, if bigger I would go to .170's. 2 circuit gas blocks, open the exit channel to .160. Idle jet needs to be around .042, .060 to .065 on the IAB. Idle jet will work much better when in the lower position like the original Holley carbs. If you are using cast metering blocks with either two or three emulsion bleeds restrict them to about .020, plug the middle on the three bleed block. .028 MAB, 95 jet will be close enough and jet as needed from there. .130 N&S, viton is fine. Zinc parts are more immune to corrosion, stay away from aluminum with the exception of anodized parts. On Dominators I Alodine the bodies, helps but if there is moisture you will see a little corrosion.
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