What Race Oil do you trust?

[Bobby Fazio]

Used Red Line 20w synthetic race oil for last two years until I won the stock/super stock race at Maple Grove and Jeff Kundratic gave me a buy one/get one on some Lucas Race oil (10w30 conventional) that I put in the car for the Dutch. I heard you had to change Gibbs very often, I usually change my filter every 2-3 races and the oil 2-3 times a year or every 20 runs.

[Ed Carpenter]

Bobby or anyone else I just bought some Redline 20W. Always ran Mobil 1 before. Has this been a good oil for those that had used it. Got Gibbs break in oil in it now. Hoping to make a pass soon. Lol

[Reed Granrt]

If you ant to get a definite argument started amongst racer's, just ask what is the best oil to use and then sit back and listen to all the different stories.
I guess,I, like most people have tried every oil mixture and additive that has showed up on the market. At one point, I prided myself at being an excellent mixer of all those additives. Man I became a grade A mixer. But in the past few years and after some stinging words from Lake Speed Jr, I have come to realize I am not a Chemist. I have learned to stay away from "moly" additives, either added or in the oil to begin with. "Moly will indeed blind most all oil filters. The finer the mesh, the more the blind. Also, it may or may not go into suspension with todays oils. I have also found it to separate out from the base oil once not in motion. Once separated out, very hard to get it back into suspension. I, like many on this site, have come to understand , that we must start a new engine on the best formulation of break in oil you can get. Again, I stay away from additives as mentioned earlier. Break in oil must be full of zinc anti-wear and anti-scuff additives so as to promote good ring seal and give protection for items that are rubbing, such as lifters. Break in oil should never have friction modifiers in it. This will indeed inhibit ring seal. A good break in oil will have different burn off rates of the zinc too provide needed protection for lifters and bearings and then burn off slowly so that rings can seal--and this is a definite hard line to keep within boundaries. Once your breakin oil has performed its job and you deem it time to go to racing oils and or to high performance oils, then I look for oil that has super friction modifiers to reduce friction and heat. Of course a good oil will have many more additives to perform certain task. You have oils that make you go fast but you give up some reliability and you have oils that increases reliability and gives up speed. Take your pick. If you build an engine with the notorious .001 per inch specs, then most of us run too thin an oil for reliability. Again our decision to run on kill or not. One thing I am certain of is that I never put moly of any type on lifters and or cams. Most cam companies have begun to move away from this so as not to have moly "clash". Moly seems to clash with many oil additives in todays oil.
Hey my two cents worth and not meaning to disrupt any one's thoughts.
reed

[monte442]

If you are having to use additives with the oil you are using then you are not using the correct oil to begin with.

[Ed Wright]

Mobil1 and additive is cheaper and worked just fine in mine.

[ron mattson]

What everyone needs to do is read the article on speedtalk as it will enlighten you, if your
adding additives you got the wrong oil? I think not, and stay away from moly? almost every
good race oil has moly in it including Joe Gibbs, it says so right on the bottle.
It is the type of moly that matters, it has to be soluble moly in liquid form not powdered moly disulfide. the
oil you buy packaged has a certain amount of zinc-phosphorus-moly and other antiwear
antifriction materials in it, does that absolutely mean it cant be better I dont think so. the oil
companies have to make money on this stuff and the additive package is the bigger expense
not the base oil. Think about it Gibbs wasnt marketing oil til a few years ago do
you think they just used mobil one and said i think there could be something better, they

were adding additives and found something and decided to start marketing oil. Right
now there are prostock guys playing with shelf racing oil and putting there own "secret"
blend of additives in and giving to stocker guys and its supposedly worth .10, i havent
tried it but can tell you there are serious differences in the commercially available race
oils you can buy, check out the article on speedtalk and look at the ratio of additives that
they list and see how your favorite oil placed and who is at the top and how much of each
additive they had.

[ron mattson]

Also what Ed said post #35 very true!!!!

[Wade_Owens]

Ron, welcome to the discussion, I new you would have some ideas, too.

Wade

[Reed Granrt]

Originally Posted by ron mattson

What everyone needs to do is read the article on speedtalk as it will enlighten you, if your
adding additives you got the wrong oil? I think not, and stay away from moly? almost every
good race oil has moly in it including Joe Gibbs, it says so right on the bottle.
It is the type of moly that matters, it has to be soluble moly in liquid form not powdered moly disulfide. the
oil you buy packaged has a certain amount of zinc-phosphorus-moly and other antiwear
antifriction materials in it, does that absolutely mean it cant be better I dont think so. the oil
companies have to make money on this stuff and the additive package is the bigger expense
not the base oil. Think about it Gibbs wasnt marketing oil til a few years ago do
you think they just used mobil one and said i think there could be something better, they

were adding additives and found something and decided to start marketing oil. Right
now there are prostock guys playing with shelf racing oil and putting there own "secret"
blend of additives in and giving to stocker guys and its supposedly worth .10, i havent
tried it but can tell you there are serious differences in the commercially available race
oils you can buy, check out the article on speedtalk and look at the ratio of additives that
they list and see how your favorite oil placed and who is at the top and how much of each
additive they had.

Ron
I totally agree on Moly. I am sorry if I came across about Moly being in oil. My purpose was to say, I do not add any Moly. The oil companies know what needs to be added to make their oil work and many use Moly but for me to add Moly is wrong in that it may clash with what they already have in it. Yes I have seen people mix their on additives and as I stated, you can make it go faster or last longer. It is a fine line to walk.
Ed, you can be correct in mixing Mobil 1 and your additive for yourself but I have torn down many engines with terrible consequences from playing Chemist. Some will work and some will not but I myself will not build an engine and tell them to mix themself. If you tell them to add one additive, then it has to be better if you add two,,right.
reed

[njk53]

I'm with Ed. Mobil 1 is not only a quality motor oil, it is a whole lot cheaper than some of the other racing oils, so you can change it more often if you chose to do so. I spoke to a Mobil engineer about a year or so ago and he stated that you should not have to run an additive with any Mobil 1 Synthetic oil if you are running a flat tappet camshaft. I use the Comp Cams additive to provide me a higher degree of confidence when it comes to wear. Maybe I am wasting my money but, we have had no issues with the oil/additive combination we use.