Red Line versus Valvoline versus Mobil One?

[Bill Edgeworth]

You cannot count on what worked best for someone else being best for your motor unless you have the exact same combo, same lifters, same rings, same clearances etc. you could throw 0-3wt pro stock oil in a solid cam motor an make more power but what’s it going to do in a hydraulic cam motor? With Sherman lifters? With Shubecks? With stock lifters? Probably fall flat on its face. Unfortunately the only way to really know what works best with your combo is lots of expensive dyno time! You also can’t change the oil on the dyno and expect to see the exact results on the next pull it takes a few runs for it to work in and see how it affects things like you ring seating, lifter bleed etc.
Lately I have been running both Red line which is now my preference and I also tried the Lucas oils which also seem good. In my opinion the Royal Purple is overpriced for what it is. I have also run the Mobil 0-20wt hybrid oil with a bottle of ZDP added. On my combo that gives about the same results as Racing 11.
Also Mobil has now brought out high zinc racing oils the price on their 20wt is ridiculous over $20 a quart.

[Myron Piatek]

I've been using one of Amsoil's 0w-30 oils for several years but switched to their new Dominator series. I don't have any back-to-back comparisons but am sure there are ET and wear benefits over others, especially conventional oils. I did notice a big jump in oil pressure when I went from 0w-30 to 10w-30, especially through the lights. But it settled down to a more comfortable level when I put in their 5w-20.

Amsoil has several high zinc oils out, including their Dominator series, in a variety of viscosities.

https://www.amsoil.com/dealer/techse...t%20Tappet.pdf

Amsoil souirce & info: www.thelubepage.com

[njk53]

So in your opinions, if you use a synthetic oil (non-racing), you should be using a zinc/phosphorus additive?

[SSGN]

I talked to John Force and he said"castrol makes the most hp".I asked Eddie Hill and he said"Penzoil".How do you really know whats best unless you try it.LOL

[RJ]

Originally Posted by Bill Edgeworth

You cannot count on what worked best for someone else being best for your motor unless you have the exact same combo, same lifters, same rings, same clearances etc. you could throw 0-3wt pro stock oil in a solid cam motor an make more power but what’s it going to do in a hydraulic cam motor? With Sherman lifters? With Shubecks? With stock lifters? Probably fall flat on its face. Unfortunately the only way to really know what works best with your combo is lots of expensive dyno time! You also can’t change the oil on the dyno and expect to see the exact results on the next pull it takes a few runs for it to work in and see how it affects things like you ring seating, lifter bleed etc.
.

This is spot on, there are way too many variables as is mentioned, along with bore finish, that may contribute to a certain oil performing better than the rest. You need to do your own testing to really know.

[GarysZ24]

Bill, I'm glad you spoke about Royal Purple Oil as you did in your most recent post. My engine builder was a RP user and after I broke in my motor I tried some of it. Back in the 90's it was nearly $9.00 per quart (OMG), while the others were between $2.75 & $3.75. The John Force factor had some to do with my switch, but I mainly went to Castrol because the originally were advertised as the ideal oil for smaller engines (which I certainly have, compared to the behemoth big blocks about Stock Eliminator), and their contingency postings being unequalled by the other products out there (especially in years past).

Bill you and RJ both hit the nail on the head, that testing is the way to know which one is best for your given combo, and that what may work for one engine combo, might not be best for another. That said, I feel that I improved by going to Castrol, and I certainly liked their involvement in all levels of NHRA drag racing (national event contingencies (class wins as well), divisionals, and et bracket finals), which most of the others don't equal. Given that I'm running a motor that was built 13yrs ago, I have to also give credit to the additive "RESTORE", because the tandem has helped my V6 keep on running (good & competitive) for all of these years...thus Castrol can't be all bad! However, when it comes to my truck Valvoline's "Dura Blend" oil I've used since my truck had 15k on it, and my inline 5cyl engine still hauls the Z24 and an 18ft flat bed car hauler around with 87k on it now ('Vegas is looming for it again). If Valvoline was as in to the contingencies as Castrol is/was then I'd switch the Cavalier over to them also. My .02 worth....

[Pat Cook]

Just curious, has anybody done back to back testing at the track?

[njk53]

Thanks for the reply Al. I am so paranoid about motor oil; always thinking I am going to wipe out a camshaft. I had a long conversation with a tech at Conoco-Phillips and it was like pulling teeth trying to get zinc/phosphorus content information about their products from him. I never did get a straight answer. In your opinion, is the ZDDP oil additive a quality product? The reason I ask is if you buy a 10 pack, it is $7.99 a 4 oz. bottle.

[Michael Beard]

CAM2 Blue Blood Racing Oil is a high zinc (2,000PPM) & phosphorus oil. cam2racing.com