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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 7 Posts
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Garage floor was done yesterday Looks fantastic and very good job I would highly recommend any one in the Dallas area to try these guys out.
Tried to upload photo but says too big can't seem to figure out how to load it |
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#12 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 673
Likes: 140
Liked 72 Times in 40 Posts
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Put the pic on photobucket and then copy the IMG URL from there....free accounts...
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#13 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 7 Posts
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Picture
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#14 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,114
Likes: 1,078
Liked 180 Times in 110 Posts
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Did two garages.
Used epoxy base. First Garage was a new floor and did not need to sand it. But thoroughly used the Acid and Water. Made a mistake and started painting before the floor was perfectly dry. Over time the one side that was apparently damp is pealing. Eventully will need redone from scratch but fine after 10 years. Other side that dried properly holding up just fine. Second garage needed a thorough sanding because of grease. Then the acid and water rince. Waited a whole day for the floor to dry this time. It came out looking much better having a smoother look. Consider the sanding as it cleans up the imperfections. D |
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#15 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: West Coast of Florida
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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I have always used a concrete stain.
It's inexpensive for a few gallons in either a light grey or a dark grey color. The nice think is living here on the West Coast of Florida the hot car or truck tires will not lift the stain like they do with most paint products. Every three or five years if it starts looking old I simply re stain it again. One easy way to make it look new again after a few projects is to mop the floor with a mop and simply put some Dawn hand cleaner on the floor and it removes any grease or dirt and makes the floor look brand new again. One other tip DO NOT ADD ANY SAND in with the stain trying to make it less slippery because the sane will wear off the floor in high traffic areas making your floor look stupid. Jim Hill |
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#16 | |
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
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I have been doing a lot of research on this topic, I am very interested in this product...Is it the H&C color top solvent based solid color concrete sealer? How does it do resisting chipping, like from jack stands? How long have you had it down now? Did you have to clear over the stain? Thanks Brandon |
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#17 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: madison wis
Posts: 10
Likes: 5
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im sure ken has finished his floor by now and hope it worked out good.as a concrete polisher I thought I would share my thoughts.preping floor with acid does not do much.grinding thru the cap is a must.not only does it smooth the floor,the coating will penetrate for a strong bond. also using densifiers before a coating will effect the bond. I offer grinding services for diy home owners.look for a concrete polisher in your area for prep, it will be worth it.
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Scott justo. 2009018 lc22r |
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#18 |
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Likes: 19
Liked 20 Times in 15 Posts
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For your shop use the silver foiled bubble wrap insulation over the stone and before the rebar goes in. Keeps the floor cool/warm and is an excellent vapor barrier. Don't forget to add a thicker pad area if you will be adding a lift in the future. As for a surface finish, this is a pore sealer, 50/50 mineral spirits and polyurethane 1 months after the concrete cures(rinse and maybe some vinegar.. Unlike modern sealer that are acrylic and don't penetrate much.They are a top coating that wears and not solvent(brake cleaner) friendly. Being deep in the pores, the poly doesn't let oil seep in. You never have to re do it.
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