12 bolt R&P setup

RJ · 09-19-2009, 10:11 AM

I am putting in my ring and pinion this weekend, and need some direction from the 12 bolt stocker guys regarding setup? - I have a 3600 lb. car, 5.14 lightened 9310 pro gear with 50 passes on it, heavy duty caps, T/A cover, and will be using light synthetic lube. It's a stocker and I expect the 60ft.'s to be in the high 1.30's, looking for any setup info/advise (back lash, etc.) you can lend.

Thanks

Alan Roehrich · 09-19-2009, 11:19 AM

Back lash to the tight side, what ever the low spec is, make it your high side spec, and make the low/tight spec 0.002" lower. Make sure it does not bind anywhere. Pattern on the drive side needs to go towards the center of the ring gear, heavier/further than the instructions usually show, so your pinion depth will be to the shallow side, making the pinion run deeper towards the center of the ring gear.

Keep the drive side pattern off of the OD end of the ring gear teeth. That is especially true of lightened ring gears (I do not use them). The ring and pinion will try to drive away from each other under load, that's how you break the outer ends of the ring gear teeth off, and the end of the pinion gear teeth as well.

This will also make your pattern show deep towards the root of the teeth.

I use ARP studs to hold the caps on. I forget what the part number is, ARP does not list them, I buy them from CV Products, they stock individual studs. I also use their ring gear bolts, and torque them with 271 red Loctite.

I use a steel spacer, never a crush sleeve. And never hone the bearing for a slip fit. It'll kill the shim under the bearing. I set new gear preload to 10-15 inch pounds, and used gear preload to 5-10 inch pounds. Red 271 Loctite on a new pinion nut will allow you to torque the crap out of the pinion nut if you have a spacer and not a crush sleeve. The pinion coming loose is death to a 12 bolt.

I'm not sure light synthetic is the way to go. Standard wight synthetic will take more of the shock. Over fill it by a 1/2 quart, to start, as the center section can pump dry.

Dion Hildebrandt · 09-19-2009, 03:17 PM

"I use a steel spacer, never a crush sleeve. And never hone the bearing for a slip fit. It'll kill the shim under the bearing. I set new gear preload to 10-15 inch pounds, and used gear preload to 5-10 inch pounds. Red 271 Loctite on a new pinion nut will allow you to torque the crap out of the pinion nut if you have a spacer and not a crush sleeve. The pinion coming loose is death to a 12 bolt "

Where can these spacers be bought? i'm about to regear my car this winter and will be needing a spacer thanx in advance

Alan Roehrich · 09-19-2009, 03:26 PM

Dion, Mark Williams has them, as does Ratech, and I'd be surprised if Strange does not have them, but have not gotten one from Strange in years.

henrys57wagon · 09-19-2009, 05:31 PM

If you have a good machinist friend he can make a solid collar for you. 20 years ago I made some for myself and some other stock and SS racers around here. I made them about a 1/16 shorter than a used collar and made shims to get the right rotational torque. Still have one in our street driven Nova stocker, Henry.

RJ · 09-20-2009, 07:44 PM

My car is an automatic, billet aluminum yoke OK?

09-19-2009, 10:11 AM	#1
RJ Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 248 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	12 bolt R&P setup I am putting in my ring and pinion this weekend, and need some direction from the 12 bolt stocker guys regarding setup? - I have a 3600 lb. car, 5.14 lightened 9310 pro gear with 50 passes on it, heavy duty caps, T/A cover, and will be using light synthetic lube. It's a stocker and I expect the 60ft.'s to be in the high 1.30's, looking for any setup info/advise (back lash, etc.) you can lend. Thanks

09-19-2009, 11:19 AM	#2
Alan Roehrich VIP Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 4,915 Likes: 996 Liked 1,043 Times in 274 Posts	Re: 12 bolt R&P setup Back lash to the tight side, what ever the low spec is, make it your high side spec, and make the low/tight spec 0.002" lower. Make sure it does not bind anywhere. Pattern on the drive side needs to go towards the center of the ring gear, heavier/further than the instructions usually show, so your pinion depth will be to the shallow side, making the pinion run deeper towards the center of the ring gear. Keep the drive side pattern off of the OD end of the ring gear teeth. That is especially true of lightened ring gears (I do not use them). The ring and pinion will try to drive away from each other under load, that's how you break the outer ends of the ring gear teeth off, and the end of the pinion gear teeth as well. This will also make your pattern show deep towards the root of the teeth. I use ARP studs to hold the caps on. I forget what the part number is, ARP does not list them, I buy them from CV Products, they stock individual studs. I also use their ring gear bolts, and torque them with 271 red Loctite. I use a steel spacer, never a crush sleeve. And never hone the bearing for a slip fit. It'll kill the shim under the bearing. I set new gear preload to 10-15 inch pounds, and used gear preload to 5-10 inch pounds. Red 271 Loctite on a new pinion nut will allow you to torque the crap out of the pinion nut if you have a spacer and not a crush sleeve. The pinion coming loose is death to a 12 bolt. I'm not sure light synthetic is the way to go. Standard wight synthetic will take more of the shock. Over fill it by a 1/2 quart, to start, as the center section can pump dry. __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

09-19-2009, 03:17 PM	#3
Dion Hildebrandt Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: calgary alberta canada Posts: 383 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: 12 bolt R&P setup "I use a steel spacer, never a crush sleeve. And never hone the bearing for a slip fit. It'll kill the shim under the bearing. I set new gear preload to 10-15 inch pounds, and used gear preload to 5-10 inch pounds. Red 271 Loctite on a new pinion nut will allow you to torque the crap out of the pinion nut if you have a spacer and not a crush sleeve. The pinion coming loose is death to a 12 bolt " Where can these spacers be bought? i'm about to regear my car this winter and will be needing a spacer thanx in advance __________________ Dion Hildebrandt 6009 STK H/SA

09-19-2009, 03:26 PM	#4
Alan Roehrich VIP Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Murfreesboro TN Posts: 4,915 Likes: 996 Liked 1,043 Times in 274 Posts	Re: 12 bolt R&P setup Dion, Mark Williams has them, as does Ratech, and I'd be surprised if Strange does not have them, but have not gotten one from Strange in years. __________________ Alan Roehrich 212A G/S

09-19-2009, 05:31 PM	#5
henrys57wagon Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Carleton Place, On. Canada Posts: 107 Likes: 5 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: 12 bolt R&P setup If you have a good machinist friend he can make a solid collar for you. 20 years ago I made some for myself and some other stock and SS racers around here. I made them about a 1/16 shorter than a used collar and made shims to get the right rotational torque. Still have one in our street driven Nova stocker, Henry. __________________ old 1608 stock racer

09-20-2009, 07:44 PM	#6
RJ Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Posts: 248 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: 12 bolt R&P setup My car is an automatic, billet aluminum yoke OK?