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Old 11-26-2020, 08:41 PM   #1
Jeff Stout
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Default Late model F Body rear tire separation on stocker

Looking for pictures. Also info in set up if your willing. Need for a non class car with stock suspension. Owner says it can't be done. Automatic car without transbrake and current set up has next to no tire separation. Good shocks a 10 inch tire.
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Old 11-28-2020, 06:41 PM   #2
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Default Re: Late model F Body rear tire separation on stocker

Start with loosening the shock extension and stiffening the compression from middle of adjustment range. Let it hit the tire and keep it there.
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:46 PM   #3
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Default Re: Late model F Body rear tire separation on stocker

raise the front of the torque arm ,if you are allowed suspension mods.
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Old 11-29-2020, 01:47 PM   #4
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Default Re: Late model F Body rear tire separation on stocker

What has been suggested.

Also, longer, lighter rate rear springs compressed to hold ride height will store energy and help get the housing out.

A shorter torque arm with the addition of a relocated forward mount/crossmember if allowed will be more aggressive.

LCA brackets on the housing to move the housing fastener location down and away from the axle C/L and get some up angle on the bar.

Frame ties help those cars.
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Old 11-29-2020, 03:11 PM   #5
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Default Re: Late model F Body rear tire separation on stocker

Thanks for the replies. The current set up has shorter version torque arm. It is level. It's funny as the lower arms are pointing down even after installing brackets on housing. My first thought the car is sitting way to low and making intersections way low. I want to raise pride heights and install arm up hill with hinge. Shocks are soft extension now. Maybe more spring would help. Front has 5 inch of travel and car is 50/50 on weight.
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Old 11-30-2020, 10:48 AM   #6
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Default Re: Late model F Body rear tire separation on stocker

Torque Arm controls pinion angle which should be zero under load. If the front is held stationary be sure to check. If you are using and adjustable arm then you can change the angle but pinion angle needs to be maintained at zero.


If you look at it as a 4 link the torque arm is the upper arms. Using the S&W seal puts the IC out there.


Generally the LCA should be level at ride height. Experiment from there raising and lowering the body or install the adjustable front mounts.

Rear coil springs are pretty important. The easy route is to use cargo coils they were stock on WS6 models. If you can find a set of the Eibach drag race springs but they are not marketed any longer. Santhuff has some front and rear springs contact Reinhardts.


Front should be as low as possible to store energy you will need to invest is good double adjustable shock/strut the cheap stuff does not work been there. Be prepared to cut the front spring install and remove several times to get it right.

Would think in most people opinion this suspension set up is pretty violent but using the S&W stuff the IC will be pretty far out and the car will work. For something a little more check out Apple Tree Engineering by Pete Z. Makes the rear suspension a short ladder bar the IC moves back. Been using this since my car was built know several who go low 10s with it. It MUST be installed correctly which may require slight modification to get the right fit.
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Old 11-30-2020, 04:09 PM   #7
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Default Re: Late model F Body rear tire separation on stocker

Quote:
Originally Posted by Signman View Post
Torque Arm controls pinion angle which should be zero under load. If the front is held stationary be sure to check. If you are using and adjustable arm then you can change the angle but pinion angle needs to be maintained at zero.


If you look at it as a 4 link the torque arm is the upper arms. Using the S&W seal puts the IC out there.


Generally the LCA should be level at ride height. Experiment from there raising and lowering the body or install the adjustable front mounts.

Rear coil springs are pretty important. The easy route is to use cargo coils they were stock on WS6 models. If you can find a set of the Eibach drag race springs but they are not marketed any longer. Santhuff has some front and rear springs contact Reinhardts.


Front should be as low as possible to store energy you will need to invest is good double adjustable shock/strut the cheap stuff does not work been there. Be prepared to cut the front spring install and remove several times to get it right.

Would think in most people opinion this suspension set up is pretty violent but using the S&W stuff the IC will be pretty far out and the car will work. For something a little more check out Apple Tree Engineering by Pete Z. Makes the rear suspension a short ladder bar the IC moves back. Been using this since my car was built know several who go low 10s with it. It MUST be installed correctly which may require slight modification to get the right fit.
Thank You that is some more good info to try and figure this out.
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