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Old 12-30-2010, 11:49 AM   #11
Michael Beard
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Default Re: Engine Oil

CAM2 Blue Blood Racing Oil has over 2,000PPM Zinc, high phospherous, etc... everything you're looking for, and it's cheaper than some of the other synthetics. I run their 0w30 full synthetic... full time, too, and that includes double-entering at big money bracket races. In my opinion, it's more consistent in hot lap situations, where a 20w50 will start to thin out after so many heat cycles and make the car pick up. They also make some 15w30 and 20w50. cam2racing.com
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:21 PM   #12
Chris Williams
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Default Re: Engine Oil

We run the Lucas 20-50, change every 20-25 passes, and just pulled the engine apart. Bearings and everything else looks great.
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Old 12-30-2010, 02:42 PM   #13
KEVIN T
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Rock, Thanks for your comments.

OK, the consensus is to stay with oil that has a zinc compound in it. I switched over to Lucas oil this year as well. I agree that the cost of sythetic does not make it practical for my class. I stayed with the 20/50 grade and the oil pressure would vary from 40-50 psi pre race and 20 psi or so post race. Second question is would a thinner grade oil help. I have expierenced lifter failure twice recently, (80 runs between failures) both on the right bank. 2 & 4 cylinders. It made a mess of a lot of parts. Don't want to go through that again.

Thanks,
Kevin Tiedemann
S/ST145T
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Old 12-30-2010, 05:31 PM   #14
283nova
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Default Re: Engine Oil

ive had good luck with valvoline vr1, internal looked great.
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Old 12-30-2010, 07:43 PM   #15
d1hitter
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVIN T View Post
Rock, Thanks for your comments.

OK, the consensus is to stay with oil that has a zinc compound in it. I switched over to Lucas oil this year as well. I agree that the cost of sythetic does not make it practical for my class. I stayed with the 20/50 grade and the oil pressure would vary from 40-50 psi pre race and 20 psi or so post race. Second question is would a thinner grade oil help. I have expierenced lifter failure twice recently, (80 runs between failures) both on the right bank. 2 & 4 cylinders. It made a mess of a lot of parts. Don't want to go through that again.

Thanks,
Kevin Tiedemann
S/ST145T
it ain't the oil, check your pushrod lenght and springs and also no oil restrictors
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:14 PM   #16
Tim H
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Default Re: Engine Oil

I also use the Valvoline VR1 race oil, it has ZDDP in it and states it on the back of the bottle.
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Old 12-30-2010, 09:41 PM   #17
DIAPERMAN
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Talking Re: Engine Oil

Lucas Oil 20/50 Syn change every 25 runs and Steve Schmidt said looks like new after 150 runs
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:12 AM   #18
Tom Goldman
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Default Re: Engine Oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by KEVIN T View Post
Rock, Thanks for your comments.

OK, the consensus is to stay with oil that has a zinc compound in it. I switched over to Lucas oil this year as well. I agree that the cost of sythetic does not make it practical for my class. I stayed with the 20/50 grade and the oil pressure would vary from 40-50 psi pre race and 20 psi or so post race. Second question is would a thinner grade oil help. I have expierenced lifter failure twice recently, (80 runs between failures) both on the right bank. 2 & 4 cylinders. It made a mess of a lot of parts. Don't want to go through that again.

Thanks,
Kevin Tiedemann
S/ST145T
Have to agree with Hitter.
Geometry or running wimpy valve springs and bouncing the valve train will beat a lifter to a premature death.
I ran175 passes on mine this year with a cam with .880" lift and seat pressure of 380#and well over 1000# over the nose.@7600 rpm......did not break any springs or even have to touch the adjustment more than 2 or 3 times. ..[ stud rockers and girdle too]
Anybody who knows me will attest to the fact that I am not shy about the burn out. ...but I am careful.
Read the Reher / Morrison article in the last Nat Dragster , some good reading there.
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