Best unleaded from the approved fuel list for turbo Stocker?

[6130]

Considering a 2015 Ecoboost Mustang for I/J/K Auto.

I see Sunoco 260GTX and VP C10 on the list. Anything else I should be considering?

[HawkBrosMav]

Originally Posted by 6130

Considering a 2015 Ecoboost Mustang for I/J/K Auto.

I see Sunoco 260GTX and VP C10 on the list. Anything else I should be considering?

Neither are probably worth the effort/price to find consistently for any performance gains you think you might see.. We tried them both with no noticeable difference over just running the easy to find and "cheaper" Sunoco 110 purple. If you're looking to squeeze every last HP out of it, this might be worth the effort, but based on your other post it seems like this car isn't going to be a record holder or anything like that.

I'm sure others will have another opinion as fuel is something that many people differ on, but this is just with my experience for what it's worth.

Brad

[6130]

But this car has an O2 sensor or two, that will be used by the stock engine computer for closed-loop operation, and I don't want to be fouling them and replacing them...

[HawkBrosMav]

Originally Posted by 6130

But this car has an O2 sensor or two, that will be used by the stock engine computer for closed-loop operation, and I don't want to be fouling them and replacing them...

If you can by higher quality ones that still interact correctly with the OEM computer that wont be as big an issue as you think it is. We're running and late 80's 302 EFI car and have had zero issues with both the OEM computer system and the new Holley system we put on with running leaded fuel and killing O2 sensors.

Maybe we've just been lucky.. I'll have to look into the O2's we ran with the stock system, but we are running the NTK O2's with the Holley.

Brad

[6130]

My question was kind of turbo-specific, but thanks for the input, Brad.

Frankly, it should be able to run under on pump 93, with or without a little octane booster for insurance, but pump 93 isn't on the approved list.

Does NHRA conduct fuel checks only at national events, divisionals, or what?

[Mike Pearson]

They check fuel at divisional, national and national open events in stock and super stock so you will have to run an approved fuel. Pump gas is not legal to run in NHRA competition.
With the new regime taking over in January leaded fuel will be going away soon so hopefully the fuel suppliers are working on unleaded fuel for our type of engines.

[6130]

I hope so.

110 R+M/2 unleaded available and on the approved list, would be pretty cool.

[Sean Marconette]

VP C-16 is what I run in my SS 84 2.3 turbo Mustang. Not cheap but it works and has never had any issues passing fuel check. I buy a barrel, and transport what I need for each race. I believe that is what the other guys running this combo in stock are also using. We also own a 2016 Ecoboost Mustang, in sport mode it will product over 32-34 lbs of boost. Don't shoot yourself in the foot by not running the right fuel for a turbo combo. As for O2 sensors, I replace mine every season as preventative maintenance. I do not see any change in performance after changing out the sensor.

Stick or auto? If you delete emissions stuff and get the weight down to minimum, that combo will run well under the index. What are you planning on doing for engine management?

Sean

[6130]

We're thinking about a VERY basic combo. Stock engine, stock computer, stock converter, and stock rear end gears. Baer SS4 front brakes, 15" Bogarts, mandrel-bent 3" open downpipe, rear O2 spacer, an aftermarket tune, the required safety equipment, and a fuel tap per the rules for fuel testing. If it won't run under, then maybe a converter for the stock 6R80 automatic transmission.

Frankly, I'm thinking of DOT drag tires, license plates, and liability insurance, to avoid the cost of a truck and trailer. It should get at least 30 mpg on the highway. For any race that is any significant distance away, we can rent a U-Haul truck and open car trailer.

[Dave Gantz]

Originally Posted by 6130

Frankly, I'm thinking of DOT drag tires, license plates, and liability insurance, to avoid the cost of a truck and trailer. It should get at least 30 mpg on the highway.

It doesn't matter if it gets 300 mpg. It REALLY sucks when (not if) your car breaks, at the track or wherever.
I broke an axle on the starting line. The starter said, "Well, it hooked". Yep, and all of the money flew out of my wallet, because of that hook.