Ford vs Chevy Build-up

[FireSale]

Based on the timeline and text, the body style remained unchanged for base models from 87 through 92 or 93. Just pick the motor, I guess. 89 sounds good.

Dale

[fred goodwin]

I have owned a handful of fox mustangs,the only thing I remember is the body side molding is black on an 89 and body colored on my 1990 lx convertable.

[HandOverFist]

This video is where I determined that there are no differences between the '89 and '90 model GT's...

The '90...I can't tell any difference at all. Remove that hideous rear spoiler and it looks identical to the '89.



I have to wait on the repair of the lift in the back shop before doing any major disassembly of the car. I have not received any detailed feedback as of yet on specific parts, but from what I have seen thus far I'm leaning toward the MM full length subframe connectors and 6-point rollbar. I'll fabricate my own driveshaft loop and weld to the subframe connectors instead of the usual bolt-thru the pan variety. I'll need to talk to someone in the know about specifics like upper/lower control arms, springs and reinforcement of control arm mounting points.

[FireSale]

There are Info Guides on this link that might help with your suspension questions.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/7993-suspension.html

Dale

[west coast]

Been really busy lately but here is the biggest bang for your bucks. Start with these 3 camshaft, rear gears and low gear set in a C4 is a must with that heavy of car these will be your biggest gains on et. Yes the roll bar, front springs and rear suspension are a must also. Could type more but it is lunch time.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by west coast

Been really busy lately but here is the biggest bang for your bucks. Start with these 3 camshaft, rear gears and low gear set in a C4 is a must with that heavy of car these will be your biggest gains on et. Yes the roll bar, front springs and rear suspension are a must also. Could type more but it is lunch time.

Appreciate any input James - I'll contact Bullet Cams when the time comes. I'm sure Thomas Arnett can help on the C4...I know squat about Ford transmissions. Right now I'm trying to garner info on control arms and springs...also wondering about 26" vs 28" rear tires.

Still awaiting repairs on the lift I just eyeballed the car a bit more this afternoon. I focused on the steering wheel with the blown airbag and began to mess with it a bit. The previous owner had taped the face up with some duct tape...effective, but it left a mess of glue residue when I peeled it off. A little WD-40 and a rag and it began to clean up and come back to presentable. I believe I can salvage the wheel after all...might even use the built in horn button for a linelock switch before it's over.





I need to formulate a plan for the console as far as switches and aftermarket shifter go.



Even with the back seat deleted the roll bar appears it will be a tight fit. Still leaning towards the Maximum Motorsports 6/8 point kit for convertibles until I hear better otherwise.

[HandOverFist]

Question for those in the know - Am I going to have any problem getting this car down to 3225 pounds with a mild steel 6-point roll bar installed? It will have the usual Stocker parts removal process.

[Painter]

The difference between a mild steel and chrome moly rollbar is exactly like the difference between a good foundation and not so good foundation under your house. Works good for now, but REAL hard to change later. Mild steel is for trailers.

[Robert Swartz]

Originally Posted by HandOverFist

Question for those in the know - Am I going to have any problem getting this car down to 3225 pounds with a mild steel 6-point roll bar installed? It will have the usual Stocker parts removal process.

Rich,

It depends? First you need to weigh the car as it sets, also need a good idea of how much fuel is in the car, this gives you a baseline. Being a convertible and needing a roll bar and sub frame connectors, I'd want to know their weight. That is compensation weight, you will take weight out but putting those in adds weight back, I'm sure you know this. I prefer a track scale or one of the digital setups the circle track guys use.

I like to use a common bathroom scale, weigh everything and record the weights as I take it out. That includes wheels and tires and record the difference. Modern aluminum wheels weigh a bunch. Using stocker thought, there are a lot of unnecessary items in a car. Don't forget the underneath of a car, undercoating sucks but it's weight. Changing from power to manual steering, manual brakes, can get rid of that booster. Then you can work the interior, since it's getting a roll bar, it all has to come out anyway.

Good luck, hopefully I can get my "U" car together and meet you at a track someday.

[HandOverFist]

Originally Posted by Painter

The difference between a mild steel and chrome moly rollbar is exactly like the difference between a good foundation and not so good foundation under your house. Works good for now, but REAL hard to change later. Mild steel is for trailers.

Probably a poor choice in wording on my part...what I meant was 0.134 wall DOM tubing. Reasoning is I will be doing this on my own and don't have the expertise or equipment to TIG weld Chro-Moly. Btw, finally got a ring package for those CP pistons and I'm just about ready to re-assemble the engine for the other car...thanks again!

No, I have not weighed the Mustang as it sits yet. When we were working on the Camaro I had access to wheel scales and it proved to be accurate...may try to borrow those one more time for this car. I was just fishing for answers from others who have/had similar cars concerning weight.