Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake

XSTOCKER · 08-14-2010, 11:20 AM

On average, how much faster is a pro tree brake as compaired to a standard bracket brake? Is anyone getting away with a standard brake on a .400 tree?
Thanks, Mike

Rich Biebel · 08-14-2010, 08:18 PM

A pro tree valve body is usually .02 maybe even .03 quicker.

My last dragster had a std valve body in it. I usually had about .030-.040 delay in it on a .400 tree. It was a fairly short wheelbase suspended dragster...215"...

My present car is 235" and way slower reacting.....

sskwb · 08-15-2010, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Biebel

A pro tree valve body is usually .02 maybe even .03 quicker.

My last dragster had a std valve body in it. I usually had about .030-.040 delay in it on a .400 tree. It was a fairly short wheelbase suspended dragster...215"...

My present car is 235" and way slower reacting.....

What makes the longer car react slower? chassis design? the fact that it's just longer? engine combo?

Bob Verwold · 08-15-2010, 08:50 AM

Mostly it's just Rich getting older.....

Rich Biebel · 08-15-2010, 05:26 PM

I sure wish I knew the answer as to why my RaceTech reacts slower than my old car...and by a lot....

I have tried almost everything I can think of and it still is a lot slower.

We run the .370 tree in my area and it has compounded the issue when I run some S/C events.....

The numbers I use in the box for bracket racing back up what I see on a pro tree

The owner of RaceTech told me the longer wheelbase would definately account for some of it.....

The trans builder of my old cars trans said there was no way I could be hitting lights like I was......I must be very fast......

That is not true and never has been......a practice tree proves that......I do know how to concentrate and usually do that without an issue....

I have tried 2 different valve bodies in the trans......had the converter redone....messed with shocks......weight in the nose.....timing....RPM Chips........trans brake buttons.....sent the delay box out for testing.....

I have been told to let someone else drive the car....but I am not doing that.....

It's my car...I'm driving it...win or lose.....or I sell it....LOL

Last time out bracket racing... my RT's were .003-.007-.014 and I lost taking to much stripe......

I am older Bob....and the eyes aren't what they used to be so you might be right.....

Bob Verwold · 08-15-2010, 06:26 PM

Just messing with ya..........I'm as old or older.

Didn't want to hijack the thread.

sc7667 · 08-17-2010, 04:59 PM

Your old(shorter) car most likely hiked the front wheels straight up out of the beams at the hit and your new(longer) car does not. My brother and I both carry a lot of weight up front to make sure the wheels stay on the ground. The problem with the front lifting out of the beems is that it will vary with weather and track conditions. If the weather gets good it will happen quicker and vice versa when the weather falls off. As long as you aren't late then you are in good shape.

People get too hung up with how much time is in their timer. If you can leave on time everytime it doesnt matter if you have 005 or 100 you still left on time.

Roy

Michael Pliska · 10-02-2010, 12:02 PM

Missed this thread before. I'm using a mid-1980's vintage TCI brake, on an A-arm & ladder bar tube chassis car (2520 lbs with driver, roughly 50/50 weight distribution). I can just barely go red on a 0.370 tree, and adjust with front travel and tire pressure to stay green. Back in the old incandescent tree days I could go 0.370 red with all the travel taken out.

08-14-2010, 11:20 AM	#1
XSTOCKER Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Posts: 147 Likes: 19 Liked 8 Times in 3 Posts	Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake On average, how much faster is a pro tree brake as compaired to a standard bracket brake? Is anyone getting away with a standard brake on a .400 tree? Thanks, Mike

08-14-2010, 08:18 PM	#2
Rich Biebel VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Northern New Jersey suburbs Posts: 2,275 Likes: 25 Liked 510 Times in 200 Posts	Re: Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake A pro tree valve body is usually .02 maybe even .03 quicker. My last dragster had a std valve body in it. I usually had about .030-.040 delay in it on a .400 tree. It was a fairly short wheelbase suspended dragster...215"... My present car is 235" and way slower reacting..... __________________ Rich Biebel S/C 1479

08-15-2010, 08:50 AM	#4
Bob Verwold Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Fayetteville Ohio Posts: 656 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake Mostly it's just Rich getting older.....

08-15-2010, 05:26 PM	#5
Rich Biebel VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Northern New Jersey suburbs Posts: 2,275 Likes: 25 Liked 510 Times in 200 Posts	Re: Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake I sure wish I knew the answer as to why my RaceTech reacts slower than my old car...and by a lot.... I have tried almost everything I can think of and it still is a lot slower. We run the .370 tree in my area and it has compounded the issue when I run some S/C events..... The numbers I use in the box for bracket racing back up what I see on a pro tree The owner of RaceTech told me the longer wheelbase would definately account for some of it..... The trans builder of my old cars trans said there was no way I could be hitting lights like I was......I must be very fast...... That is not true and never has been......a practice tree proves that......I do know how to concentrate and usually do that without an issue.... I have tried 2 different valve bodies in the trans......had the converter redone....messed with shocks......weight in the nose.....timing....RPM Chips........trans brake buttons.....sent the delay box out for testing..... I have been told to let someone else drive the car....but I am not doing that..... It's my car...I'm driving it...win or lose.....or I sell it....LOL Last time out bracket racing... my RT's were .003-.007-.014 and I lost taking to much stripe...... I am older Bob....and the eyes aren't what they used to be so you might be right..... __________________ Rich Biebel S/C 1479

08-15-2010, 06:26 PM	#6
Bob Verwold Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Fayetteville Ohio Posts: 656 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake Just messing with ya..........I'm as old or older. Didn't want to hijack the thread. Last edited by Bob Verwold; 08-15-2010 at 06:27 PM. Reason: add

08-17-2010, 04:59 PM	#7
sc7667 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 12 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake Your old(shorter) car most likely hiked the front wheels straight up out of the beams at the hit and your new(longer) car does not. My brother and I both carry a lot of weight up front to make sure the wheels stay on the ground. The problem with the front lifting out of the beems is that it will vary with weather and track conditions. If the weather gets good it will happen quicker and vice versa when the weather falls off. As long as you aren't late then you are in good shape. People get too hung up with how much time is in their timer. If you can leave on time everytime it doesnt matter if you have 005 or 100 you still left on time. Roy

10-02-2010, 12:02 PM	#8
Michael Pliska Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Happy Valley, OR Posts: 260 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Pro tree brake vrs Standard brake Missed this thread before. I'm using a mid-1980's vintage TCI brake, on an A-arm & ladder bar tube chassis car (2520 lbs with driver, roughly 50/50 weight distribution). I can just barely go red on a 0.370 tree, and adjust with front travel and tire pressure to stay green. Back in the old incandescent tree days I could go 0.370 red with all the travel taken out. __________________ Michael Pliska 643 S/G