Boss Mustang stocker

[FireSale]

Originally Posted by GTOMayhem

I lurk here and am fairly new to a lot of stocker tricks, but what exactly are you doing in this series? I know it has something to do with hardbloc filling the block, but the details are escaping me.
Rick Thomason
GTOMayhem

I think he's replacing the press in freeze plugs with screw in ones. They are more secure. My Ford Racing M6010 BOSS 302 block came with screw in plugs.

[Bill Diehl]

Originally Posted by FireSale

I think he's replacing the press in freeze plugs with screw in ones. They are more secure. My Ford Racing M6010 BOSS 302 block came with screw in plugs.

That is correct, and the reason I am doing it is because the class requires factory motor mounts, if he looks close at the pic the motor mount bolt bosses are right next to the core (freeze) plug holes, with no support at all. the "idea" is that the screw in plugs will spread the load across the block casting more evenly....without it the ring seal would suffer. Those that race factory ford castings know the history of fords "thin wall' casting technology. This area is often overlooked. The engineers at ford installed screw in plugs on the original boss 302 and others for this very reason.

A motor plate would solve this but as the rule is written they are not allowed at this time

Rick, I will get a better pic to show you what I mean

[Bill Diehl]

This photo shows the location of the core plugs vs motor mount bosses. There are 3 on each bank and the motor mounts intersect the first 2. Most other manufactures don't have this problem. The main reason is ring seal but what the NHRA should be concerned about is the soft plug coming loose on the 1-2 shift or 3-4 ect. I would not like it nor would the car in the other lane. screw in plugs solves that concern.

[GTOMayhem]

Originally Posted by Bill Diehl

This photo shows the location of the core plugs vs motor mount bosses. There are 3 on each bank and the motor mounts intersect the first 2. Most other manufactures don't have this problem. The main reason is ring seal but what the NHRA should be concerned about is the soft plug coming loose on the 1-2 shift or 3-4 ect. I would not like it nor would the car in the other lane. screw in plugs solves that concern.

Got it. Now I see what you are talking about. Makes sense. Thanks for clarifying for me.
Rick Thomason
GTO Mayhem

[Bill Diehl]

With all that being said, I am still kicking around block fill or no block fill. The sonic test is very good on this particular casting and I like the idea of water around the liners for cooling. If the class allowed a motor plate it would get a 1/2 to 3/4 fill but since it doesn't....I am still weighing up the pros and cons.

This engine is/or will be an improvement from the old one...but I am still waiting for the track boss blocks to be available for the next upgrade, some of the mods I have done and explained in the thread will not be required with the track boss block as they are incorporated in the new castings

[Bill Diehl]

Cleaning up the front of the engine...since I will be using an electric water pump some mods to the front so I don't need a backing plate in this series.

cut the top bolt hole off that sticks up into no mans land, tap the water recirculation hole, makes for a nice clean d shaped installation

[Bill Diehl]

Converting to a low mount mini alternator, the stock location mounts off the head, uses too long of a belt, sticks out too far and just looks like...you know the word. So I will use a billet aluminum mandrel with a provision to run a vaccum pump at non NHRA races, and I will run a serpentine short belt with the correct ratio..no belts thrown off, no dead battery..ect..mocking it up to fab the brackets in this series

[Bill Diehl]

That is an adjustable voltage alternator as I use a 16 volt system on everything I build

[Bill Diehl]

A ford cleveland this is required...lifter bushings. it is the ONLY way to correct the oiling issue that this platform has. I have them made at 1.187 OD so I can correct the horrible geometry that the blocks are as cast...its amazing the engine even runs let alone makes any kind of serious power or rpm without it. my cams are ground accordingly and still use the fords .875 dia. lifter


and the lifter bushing work corresponds with the correct rocker stud location, inserts are installed to get the geometry "spot on"... 7/16 bottom thread relocated to the "right" position, 1/2 top thread comp cams stud made by arp 1/2" trunions installed in the 1.73 rockers at the "correct" pivot length for optimum geometry in this application. (the pictures show what was done but the "math" involved will stay in my brain for now, I may share that info at a later date) The Geometry that I refer to is on both sides of the stud, not only were the rocker tip contacts the valve, as that is only part of the "package"

[Bill Diehl]

What a difference, every other thread removed and cuts through cast iron like butter by hand





Finished with 4140 alloy plugs