Crank Trigger

[Tom keedle]

Originally Posted by Todd Hoven

I wasn't going to join this but I figured I would stick in my 2 cents. I had a problem with with my engine in the begining of my race season with a high speed miss above 6500. I chased the normal things, but wound up with a cam profile issue that caused destabilization in the valvetrain above the rpm stated above rpm. After a cam change my problem was solved. One of the conditions that was resolved was the timing jumping around while trying to set it. My issue is a small base circle cast cam core that was flexing with the aggressive lobe. The new cam had a different lobe and a slightly bigger base circle and cam core. I figure my cam was flexing and this was the reason for the timing variation.
I can see benifets to a crank trigger, when you are running very aggressive roller cams with alot of spring pressure causing cam flex in certain circumstances, and timing variation. With a crank trigger you eleminate a few parts that can cause an issue, nothing is more accurate than taking a signal off of the crankshaft. If you have a big enough cam core, and the right lobe design for what your trying to do, I'm sure a distributor will work well. I'm not really sure you will any ET in one over a good distributor. But I'm sure it won't slow you down. Your mileage may varry. Good luck.

now, if your distributor was at the FRONT of the engine, you wouldn't have had this problem,correct?

[Chad Rhodes]

Originally Posted by buzzinhalfdozen

Oh I think 1 retard in that car is enough.

Bwahahahaha

Originally Posted by Tom keedle

now, if your distributor was at the FRONT of the engine, you wouldn't have had this problem,correct?

I'm sure I wouldnt.

[R Lowry]

1320 racer, why don't you just shut up!!!

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Todd Hoven

I can see benifets to a crank trigger, when you are running very aggressive roller cams with alot of spring pressure causing cam flex in certain circumstances, and timing variation.

Todd, I'm pretty sure my cam with over .800 lift and 30 degree intensity and spring pressure falls under what you might call..."very aggressive roller cams with alot of spring pressure" with . Now IF my cam is flexing(standard BBC core btw) and my timing varying, it's doing it exactly the same every pass on any given day, 36 weekends a seeaon, 250+ passes a season because it ain't showing on the time slip with runs that typically vary thousanths from pass to pass.

BTW, I also run 3/8" .080 wall, 1 piece pushrods and ain't ever broke a pushrod in any of my race engines EVER!

[Jim Kaekel]

BTW, I also run 3/8" .080 wall, 1 piece pushrods and ain't ever broke a pushrod in any of my race engines EVER![/QUOTE]

There's a statement that shows your complete ignorance. Pushrods flex a helluva lot before they break. I would think that a 7/16" x .120" wall pushrod in your car would pick up some HP and I'm surely not "Grumpy" Jenkins.

[Pedigo Perf]

Originally Posted by 1320racer

Todd, I'm pretty sure my cam with over .800 lift and 30 degree intensity and spring pressure falls under what you might call..."very aggressive roller cams with alot of spring pressure" with . Now IF my cam is flexing(standard BBC core btw) and my timing varying, it's doing it exactly the same every pass on any given day, 36 weekends a seeaon, 250+ passes a season because it ain't showing on the time slip with runs that typically vary thousanths from pass to pass.

BTW, I also run 3/8" .080 wall, 1 piece pushrods and ain't ever broke a pushrod in any of my race engines EVER!

Why would you need the best of anything in your cushy little bracket car. You can get by with a lot of slop if you don't need to outrun a guy who is pushing the limits. Clearly this game is NOT for you.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by Pedigo Perf

Why would you need the best of anything in your cushy little bracket car. You can get by with a lot of slop if you don't need to outrun a guy who is pushing the limits. Clearly this game is NOT for you.

coming from the guy that thinks timing changes with oil viscosity and oil temp who also can't apply the proper torque on a stud or bolt to keep a distributor clamp from loosening up.

Originally Posted by Jim Kaekel

BTW, I also run 3/8" .080 wall, 1 piece pushrods and ain't ever broke a pushrod in any of my race engines EVER!

There's a statement that shows your complete ignorance. Pushrods flex a helluva lot before they break. I would think that a 7/16" x .120" wall pushrod in your car would pick up some HP and I'm surely not "Grumpy" Jenkins.[/QUOTE]
and you would be wrong! Grumpy raced Pro Stock a long, long time ago and built high RPM engines for comp and pro stock which neither you are I are doing!

Further, these same pushrods are in 1000s of engines built by the biggest names in sportsman engine builders, run in the super catagories as well brackets.

[Joe Toller]

It's obvious to me that 1320 is just *very* insecure. He gets off on this because he has little else to do. Like the youngsters say, "don't feed the trolls."

Why else would he be spouting off on a class forum, if he's not a class racer?

[buzzinhalfdozen]

Originally Posted by Jim Kaekel

BTW, I also run 3/8" .080 wall, 1 piece pushrods and ain't ever broke a pushrod in any of my race engines EVER!

There's a statement that shows your complete ignorance. Pushrods flex a helluva lot before they break. I would think that a 7/16" x .120" wall pushrod in your car would pick up some HP and I'm surely not "Grumpy" Jenkins.[/QUOTE]

Jim, dead on with a 0, a 3/8 pushrod unless possibly it's .120 wall with any real cam profile or spring pressure bends like crazy....seen it personally, not merely speculation. Would see witness marks on the head of rubbing with an observed static pushrod to head clearence of at least 3/16 of an inch please don't try to help this person!