Hardblock?

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by David Lee

So every combo that can not get an aftermarket block should just stop building engines. That is what you are basically saying

Sounds like your being a dick head LOL

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

95% of my circle track engines I have built for the last 40 years have been OEM block.

Now I am sure you will find something else to cry about LOL

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by David Lee

go look at the replacement blocks listed by the nhra, and try to find some of the rarer combo's. This idea having to run a replacement block and spend vast amount of money to compete will be the nail in the coffin for many people.

Work with an old OEM block that is worn out and needs lifter bore bushings, clean & mag sonic test, deck bore, plate hone, better main caps, line bore and line hone, bore and plate hone, add all that up and and after market block is the way to go.

[David Lee]

Originally Posted by carl hinkson

Sounds like your being a dick head LOL

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

95% of my circle track engines I have built for the last 40 years have been OEM block.

Now I am sure you will find something else to cry about LOL

You just contradicted yourself. thanks for proving my point.

[James L Miller]

Now that it's settled, "back to the studio" as Jeremy Clarkson might say.

To summarize, if you can get an aftermarket/HP block for your combo, buy one.

If they don't make one for your combo, either run what you can get or buy a foundry and cast your own and then get it approved by NHRA.

I submitted a 318 piston from Silvolite a couple of years ago to NHRA and never heard anything one way or the other. Good luck getting something approved.

[Alan Nyhus]

Originally Posted by James L Miller

To summarize, if you can get an aftermarket/HP block for your combo, buy one.

If they don't make one for your combo, either run what you can get or buy a foundry and cast your own and then get it approved by NHRA.

James, in your situation with the little 273, maybe the most cost effective approach is to sleeve all eight. I broke a cylinder wall last season that was .125-.130 on the thrust side after boring and prep:



Talk with Matt Steen at Victory Engines @ (507) 532-2436 and get his advice as Matt and Jason really know their way around those motors. -Al

[FINESPLINE]

As time goes by the amount of blocks is drying up so first you have to locate a block. $ Then you have to take it to machine shop for multiple tests to see if the block is useable $$$. If it passes at that point, the block needs to be machined $$$$. Than the block needs to be poured $$. Remachine block $$. Now unless your brother-in -law owns a machine shop this starts getting expensive and time consuming. Maybe you should look into pricing all that was just mentioned versus an aftermarket block. Do the math and see what works for you. Hope you get lucky on the first block. Been there done that. Just my take. Hell, I just put a Dart block in my street hot rod. To old to be dumpster diving for blocks. LOL

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by David Lee

You just contradicted yourself. thanks for proving my point.

Now I just proved you were being a dick head thats all.

By 2 PM's I received I guess I am not the only one that feels that way LOL

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by FINESPLINE

As time goes by the amount of blocks is drying up so first you have to locate a block. $ Then you have to take it to machine shop for multiple tests to see if the block is useable $$$. If it passes at that point, the block needs to be machined $$$$. Than the block needs to be poured $$. Remachine block $$. Now unless your brother-in -law owns a machine shop this starts getting expensive and time consuming. Maybe you should look into pricing all that was just mentioned versus an aftermarket block. Do the math and see what works for you. Hope you get lucky on the first block. Been there done that. Just my take. Hell, I just put a Dart block in my street hot rod. To old to be dumpster diving for blocks. LOL

Don't let David Lee see this post !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[David Lee]

that has nothing to do with the other engines that do not have replacement blocks and you admitted

I build a lot of engines with OEM blocks and no problems to date.

so i do not see what your problem is. Either we need to some how get blocks that do not exist or use the blocks we have.

I am planning on sleeving a 318 block and getting it bored to 273 specs.
And your personal attacks are not doing a thing.

[James L Miller]

Originally Posted by Alan Nyhus

James, in your situation with the little 273, maybe the most cost effective approach is to sleeve all eight. I broke a cylinder wall last season that was .125-.130 on the thrust side after boring and prep:

Talk with Matt Steen at Victory Engines @ (507) 532-2436 and get his advice as Matt and Jason really know their way around those motors. -Al

My engine guy in Florida wanted to use a 340 block (4.04" bore) and sleeve it down to 273 size (3.63" or somewhat bigger depending on the ring selection). I would have gone for sleeving down a 318 block (3.91").

Alan, was your block filled? The .130" number was fore and aft in the areas between the cylinders. I have talked with Matt, Paul Wong and others on the build. I'm mostly limited by the thickness or thinness of my wallet. It's fairly thick if I fill it with $1 bills, very thin with $100s.

Back to the studio for another round.