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#21 |
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: canada
Posts: 128
Likes: 3
Liked 9 Times in 6 Posts
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Hey Dwight
I did shoot you a pm ..just so you know Thanks |
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#22 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Glendora,Calif.
Posts: 1,134
Likes: 172
Liked 704 Times in 218 Posts
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Some years ago, the late Don Blair had a "bunch of stuff" in the patio of his house. He and I went over there, he had piles of heads, blocks, some intakes, etc. and he wanted three hundred dollars for all of it. One trip to the bank,three pickup truck trips later to and from his house,I was going through piles of cores-some junk, most serviceable, some very good. One thing I noticed about SBC blocks--you went through a very thorough inspection and went through five or six before you got one you could really use in a stocker project.One block was a #660 casting-a 68 327. All the lifter bores were dead center into the bosses, the cam tunnel was dead center in its supporting boss, so we sonic tested it to find all 8 cylinders dead center in their respective locations, so I gathered a steel crank,8 Manley rods, a set of Venolia pistons, and sent it to Gregg Luneack. Fine machinist and good guy if there ever was one. He really liked my block and wished he could have it for a Super Stock powerplant. I also have a Dart block that I'm doing a motor off of. I feel that while the 660 block was a great deal, it took some looking. For the same money(or less), and a lot less time, the Dart block would be the way to go. Mass produced castings come with variances and irregularities that can't be helped, and the result is that some are better than others. Intakes and heads show this. When flow benches got more common, more and more stocker heads and intakes got checked out, so that is why most stocker racers maintain an inventory of several spares. Serious racers with flow benches often go through 10 sets of heads, and match up the best two for their best engines. Stock eliminator requires the best effort with the best parts.The day of going to a junkyard, getting any old numbers correct core, rebuilding it, installing it in a car and setting records all over the place are long since over,if they ever existed at all. The Dart block with the 283 crank is the good place to start. When you use a Manley or other good aftermarket rod, make sure you check the length and the big end sizing. You would be suprised at what you might find. Just because its new doesn't mean it's right. Good luck and best wishes on your new project. I really want to see it run!
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#23 |
Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: canada
Posts: 128
Likes: 3
Liked 9 Times in 6 Posts
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Hey Greg
Thanks for all the info, funny story ... how things have changed $300 for 3 truck loads of chev engine parts... Thanks for the luck and wishes, always needed......... Ya I am excited about it, looked at some of the other ones that have been around and they just impress me Thanks again |
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#24 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Scotia, New York
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
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Rory,
If yor interested. I have an original 67 302 crank #3815822 std/std 2 67 bare heads #3917291 (C-17-7) (C-22-7) 1.94 & 1.5 1 67 327 block .020 over #3892657 small journal Ron |
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