Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Lee
Any weight bars? If so, high and to the rear. As high and as far back as possible. If you don'y have ballast, find a way.
Not to rub salt but obviously Kip Martin can stand his '64.5 Mustang 289/225 up pretty darn high so no reason you shouldn't. He also has a ladder bar suspension.
FYI - Ladder bars hit the rear slicks harder on the upper holes. I would move the bars up and only when I got the front end to react violently would I work on lowering the bars. You should have around 4 degrees nose down pinion angle with a ladder bar. Personally I think it should be a minimum of -4 degrees; -6 degrees may not be optimum but -2 degrees could be a problem.
Speaking from experience, QA1's on zero for rebound is still too stiff in my opinion; especially on a low torque engine like yours. On the cheap, get a pair of Calvert front shocks from Alex Denysenko. On the big dollar side there are many options. I have AFCO's & I recently re-valved the front rebound to be stiffer than the standard rebound (as I would have a lot more torque with my extra 100 cubic inches).
What is the rate on your rear coil springs? They should be light enough to hold the back of the car up with some pre-load on the springs. If they do not require pre-load, they're too heavy and the springs and shocks will not operate effectively.
You should have an aluminum drive shaft and your rear wheels and tires should be lite-weight items. The lighter the better on those little engines!
I just noticed you said you have 125# coil springs. That may be adequate but still if you have no pre-load then they're too heavy.
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i agree with what he says....