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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 785
Likes: 45
Liked 316 Times in 67 Posts
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I'd worry about cracking a head (SS)
Any thoughts on that problem? |
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tacoma, WA
Posts: 258
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I think in Jims article he mentions you should first cool it down by conventional means to prevent thermal shock then use the chiller to get it stone cold.
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Bill Edgeworth 6471 STK |
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#13 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sand Springs, OK
Posts: 8,132
Likes: 896
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Randall, I have never hooked mine up to an engine over 140 degrees, or so. I have a cool-down battery I use normally, I have a four pin connector that connects my electric water pump and two fans to the ECM in the car. I have a set of leads from my cool down battery with the same connector as goes on the leads going inside the car. I unplug the car from the fans & water pump, and plug that, battery in. An hour, hour & a half or so sitting there with the pump & fans running normally brings it back down to about ambient temp. I would get it down to 130 or so before hooking up the chiller.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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#14 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,416
Likes: 522
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Let common sense prevail here guys ya just don't slap a hose & hook up 50* water to a 200* engine with a iron block or heads. You let it cool down a bit and while you are cooling it down by circulating the water that is already in the engine you "slowly" over -20-30 seconds let cold water into the cooling system from the chiller. It doesn't take long to drop that temp the metal will cool pretty fast while the oil is gonna stay hot---in 10-15 minutes that block will be sweating its so cold!!
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