|
![]() |
#11 | |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 160
Liked 759 Times in 379 Posts
|
![]() Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
so what can/should he do to try to get the car to wheelstand better?
rear gear/trans gear/converter ? |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 160
Liked 759 Times in 379 Posts
|
![]()
need to know more about the current combo as it stands. Converter is critical as well and can't be compared by size and stall alone.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
408W 10.5:1 compression
AFR 185 heads hydraulic flat tappet 240/246 541/544 106lsa Victor jr intake Holley 950HP 1 3/4 headers C4 8" ATI 4.33 gear M/T 28x10.5 bias stiff sidewall 3100lb w driver |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 160
Liked 759 Times in 379 Posts
|
![]()
Based on the info you provided, this engine is making less than 500HP. He probably is shifting a few hundred RPM too high and the converter is a few hundred too loose. More rear gear will help providing he can hook. A move to a 4.71 gear should be worth at least .02 in 60 foot but will have him turning upwards of 500 RPM more at the stripe which isn't a bad thing providing his valve train is up to the task.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: n.j.
Posts: 23
Likes: 2
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
![]()
gear change to 4.71 will tighten the conv
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,628
Likes: 160
Liked 759 Times in 379 Posts
|
![]()
agreed, that's why it was suggested
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
![]()
Proper shock settings, dynamic adjustable strut rods and min 5 inches front travel before you consider playing with gearing or god forbid some message board know it all's GUESS at your converter needs..............
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sand Springs, OK
Posts: 8,132
Likes: 896
Liked 390 Times in 170 Posts
|
![]()
Everything he ^^^^ suggested, and free moving control arms. With the ball joint not connected to the spindle, raise the ball , then let go. Should drop. You can always slow it back down with the shocks and take travel back out with travel limiters on good starting lines. You should be fighting excessive wheel stands (they will cost you a couple hundredths) , not wheel spin.
__________________
Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA Last edited by Ed Wright; 10-18-2013 at 09:54 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Guest
Posts: n/a
|
![]()
That Mustang is a good car, and runs real well. He has changed the rear gear since that pic and calmed it down some but it runs the same, if not faster.
A low gear helps some people and not others. Depends what kind of car engine, ect. My brother has a Maverick with a .040 Boss 302. Bracket race car. He went from a 2.46 to a 2.91 in his C4. His car picked up around .08 and .04 in the 60'. Carries the front wheels almost to the 60' clock. When he leaves high on the converter. Made a big difference for him. Small engine, no tq what so ever. A lot of the NHRA class cars run a lower first gear. You will have to test and find out for your self to get your answer. YMMV. Good luck Last edited by Todd Hoven; 10-18-2013 at 10:19 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|