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We locate ours right after or right before the minor diameter in the merge, preferably before, so it is as far from the end of the collector as possible. If not using a merge, 4-6" from the ends of the primaries. Also, between 10 and 2 o'clock, if possible, so as to prevent moisture from condensing in the sensor when it is off. The sensors aren't real happy lighting off with water in them. You may see some fluctuation at idle, or rolling along in the pits or staging lanes, due to fresh air being drawn back into the collector at low RPM, but when it really matters, going down the track, it will be fine.
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Alan Roehrich 212A G/S |
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Art Leong 2095 SS Last edited by art leong; 11-17-2012 at 12:18 PM. |
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Over 4,000 rpms it seems to work fine.
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Art Leong 2095 SS |
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Problem with putting it in a primary tube is, if you get something in a jetborvinjector you won't see it in your run log. With it in the collectors, you will see a lean indication. You won't know which Cyl, but you will know which bank. If it develops a misfire for any reason you will see a lean indication, but a misfire from ignition, etc) you won't always hear it at high RPM) will cause an erratic reading. A misfire causes lean spikes. Only way I would want one in a primary would be having one in each tube.
I know I don't know everything, but have been tuning EFI cars for 23 years now, and have done it both ways. I much prefer them in the collectors, at least a foot from the end.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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I thank everyone for their reply's. This is one of the nice things about the forum ; your just a keystroke away from finding out just about anything. Since I have a small diameter and relatively long collector I'm going to put the sensor just past the point that it merges. I think it will probably work out ok there.
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Bill Bogues 4696 STK |
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I think that is your best option at this point. That being said, I am in the process of putting one in each tube and in the collector for a total of 9 on my car. Surely, I should be able to figure this tuning thing out somewhat.
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Art Leong 2095 SS |
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Art, is the coolant temp the same? Anytime I have had one pop & bang it has looked lean. If the engine is cooler I would guess it's a tad lean. My stuff always goes down the track quickest richer than the dyno liked. If your problem is at lower temps you might try adding a little fuel in your air/fuel coolant temp correction table, at the temp you are seeing first pass. That's providing you don't warm
It up to the same temp it runs at the rest of the day.
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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I was wondering if in starting and warmup I'm fouling the plugs. And it takes a run to clean them? I've got to work on the start fuel map, it does not like to start cold. pops out the throttlebodies like mad.
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Art Leong 2095 SS |
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Art, I would warm it up, then pull the plugs. They should be pretty much white. If they are black, you found it. If you can slip a muffler on it, or an extension about two feet long, you can idle it & drive it up and down the return road to find where it is so rich. Try to make it run 14-1 to 14.7-1 air/fuel at idle and all part throttle areas of the map. You can get a look at the decelloration a/f if you leave the logger on as you slow down. I think your probably cleaning the plugs up on the first pass. I'm surprised at how many black spark plugs I see guys pull out after warming them up. I hear over- rich cars driving around the pits all the time. Maybe they are trying to tune that part with open collectors?
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Ed Wright 4156 SS/JA |
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