302 chevy

[firebird]

you have convinced me to try a 283 in a 350 block. i find 350 into 400 block spacers but no 283 spacers---any help and who offers the best?

[Pvt Parts]

Originally Posted by randy wilson

We just run spacer bearings. Almost all small cube motors Al Parker does for us has small small and use large journal block. I also cut, and destroked small 283 to honda journal and so far, so good. Not saying after market isn't better, but I personally think they are strong enough to take it. After 40 years, have yet to blame the crank for engine failure. One time we hurt an engine bad, and called Al to tell him. he said, "I''l bet that turned down crank failed" I thought it did, but a rod broke and the crank was beat up bad, but never offered to break. I won't name the rod company, because I have never before or since had a rod failure. But we all know, strange things happen at 10,000.

My Super Stock 283's left the starting line wide open with no chip. At 10,200 rpm, the small 4GC carb was the limiter. Never had a motor failure of any kind.

[rustbucket79]

Clevite MS-1110H

http://www.jegs.com/i/Clevite/695/MS1110H/10002/-1

[firebird]

thanks Rustbucket---i've been enlighten

[rustbucket79]

Glad to help!

[Aaron Keown]

I agree with everyone about the chevy 283 cranks, they are a tough piece and can be made to be very competive with the high dollar ones if you are willing to spend the time working on one. We also use the 1110-H, and they can also be had in plus or minus .001 if you have an issue with main clearance. If you are going to cut the rods to honda or smaller be carful if it is a pin guided engine or if you are running a verry narrow rod bearing because you are also moving the connecting rod oil hole location on the crank pin, and I have seen an engine where someone went this route and had an issue with this that caused them to lose some rods. Chamfering the oil holes on the crank pin can also make the situation better or worse.

[randy wilson]

That might have been what happened to my rod failure. That's exactly what I tried to do.

[Aaron Keown]

Originally Posted by randy wilson

That might have been what happened to my rod failure. That's exactly what I tried to do.

In most cases where you have a broken rod the easiest way to tell if it was rod bearing/crank failure or if the rod simply just broke is to see if the rod is still free on the crank. I have seen failures of both types, but in most cases where the rod simply just breaks it will still be free on the crank and the rod bearing/crank will not be hurt badly or burnt up looking. Now if the rod breaks and the crank and bearings are scalleded, burnt up, or simply just disentegrated then that is usally where your problem lies. Hope this helps.

[randy wilson]

I belive it spun before it broke, but the carnage was so bad, it was hard to tell. But thanks guy, you answered my question.