steel or cast crank for Stock Eliminator?

Putting together a GT/C '94 Camaro with a Jerico for IHRA Stock Eliminator ('71 LT1 350/330). Would you recommend running a cast crank? Solid lift cam should pull to 7,000 rpm. If not, should I just by-pass trying to find a GM steel piece and go aftermarket? If so anyone recommend a particular brand that they have had luck with or one that I should stay away from? I've heard the cast is lighter than the forged but was wondering if it would live behind a 4-speed.

Thanks for the help!

[Chris1529]

You have to use the crankshaft that came from the factory in that engine.

[David Lee]

I would go cast, I know of many of SS cars that use cast and thier cranks last under must harsher conditions.

[Alan Roehrich]

If IHRA Stock rules are like NHRA Stock rules, you must use a factory forging or casting. You can use a GM forged crank, that's what I'd run for the sake of longevity. A cast crank MIGHT be a little faster, but it'll be measured in hundredths, if at all.

[james schaechter]

I have been tempted, but the thought of taking the crank out in 3 easy pieces keeps me from going cast. Must be factory crank. Remember, your crankbone is connected to the transmission bone etc. with a stick!

[Bub Whitaker]

Cast crankshaft, properly prepped is fine for that application... won't last any less than forged GM crank prepped the same. GM forged cranks aren't made of premo material and I have probably seen more cracked steel ones than cast...Make sure you select a core that has good cheeks on the top of the rod throws and good oil hole placement on the rod & main journals. Important to find a crank grinder that knows what he is doing as far a journal radius and to further enhance the life of your bearings, it helps emencely to have the crank surface hardened \ nitride or equivalent...

[Joe DeMarzo]

Bub, that is way you are the man,