two step/footbrakin'

[Todd Geisler]

I've heard of using a two step while footbraking and actually have a friend who does in his Nostalgia Super Stock FE Fairlane.

Can someone explain the basics of how they are typically operated?

- where is the button placed for activating the two step? I've heard of a button mounted in a hole drilled in the brake pedal pad. I've also heard of using the brake light switch.

- how much higher on start line rpm do you usually go compared to straight footbraking & loading the converter normally?

- Do you stage at WOT like a t-brake car, or won't the car hold on the line? If not, then do you simply give enough throttle to be above the rpm activation point, then still go to WOT after the tree activates?

- I've been told by one fellow that two steps at lower rpm's are hard on the engines bottom end i.e. crank & bearings. Any truth to this "rumor"?

- Lastly, straight up, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using a two step while footbraking?

Why should someone consider this launch method vs regular footbraking? Why should someone NOT consider using this method.

I know from reading past posts that this method was once or may still be controversial in Stock Eliminator. If we could, lets just discuss this as a tech topic as my car is raced in index classes, not Stock.

thank you for reading
Todd G

[Jared Jordan]

I've heard of using a two step while footbraking and actually have a friend who does in his Nostalgia Super Stock FE Fairlane.

Can someone explain the basics of how they are typically operated?

- where is the button placed for activating the two step? I've heard of a button mounted in a hole drilled in the brake pedal pad. I've also heard of using the brake light switch.

- how much higher on start line rpm do you usually go compared to straight footbraking & loading the converter normally?

- Do you stage at WOT like a t-brake car, or won't the car hold on the line? If not, then do you simply give enough throttle to be above the rpm activation point, then still go to WOT after the tree activates?

- I've been told by one fellow that two steps at lower rpm's are hard on the engines bottom end i.e. crank & bearings. Any truth to this "rumor"?

- Lastly, straight up, what are the advantages and disadvantages of using a two step while footbraking?

Why should someone consider this launch method vs regular footbraking? Why should someone NOT consider using this method.

I know from reading past posts that this method was once or may still be controversial in Stock Eliminator. If we could, lets just discuss this as a tech topic as my car is raced in index classes, not Stock.

thank you for reading
Todd G

Todd,

Though I am far from an expert on the topic, I'll try to help.

- I've seen a number of different switch configurations. I've seen guys with the hole in the pedal. I know of a couple of racers that use a brake pressure acivated switch (i.e. two-step won't arm unless there's 1000+ psi of brake pressure). One guy I've talked to uses a jake brake switch behind the pedal. Our two cars are both different. One of them has a button mounted just above the pedal. The other one has a hydraulic switch in the brake line. It's all really a matter of personal preference. Personally, I think the brake pressure activated switch is the way to go. Keeps the two-step from trying to arm when you're on the brakes at the finish line. If you have enough brake pressure up there to arm the switch you've got more problems than just the two-step coming on!

- We haven't changed the launch RPM. Back-to-back runs didn't show any performance differential between foot-braking and two-step.

- Bump in at part throttle and then when the other driver stages go to WOT.

- Have't seen any bearing or crankshaft damage in the Hemi's.

- Leaving off the two-step is more consistent. You don't have to worry about RPM's creeping while the tree's coming down. It's one more variable you're taking out of the reaction time equation.

Hope this helps.

Jared Jordan
7551 SS/BA

[Brian Holcombe]

If you use a brake pressure switch, you should also use a microswitch mounted on the shifter to allow it activate only in first gear.

I like that method,

I use the button on the steering wheel method, takes a little practice.

i 60ft .03 quicker, leave at 2600rpms at WOT.

Brian

[Jared Jordan]

If you use a brake pressure switch, you should also use a microswitch mounted on the shifter to allow it activate only in first gear.

I like that method,

I use the button on the steering wheel method, takes a little practice.

i 60ft .03 quicker, leave at 2600rpms at WOT.

Brian

How does the steering wheel method work exactly? I've been thinking about wiring the stocker up that way. What kind of switch do you use?

Jared Jordan
7551 SS/BA

[Brian Holcombe]

Jared,
i use a TCI transbrake switch.

Hold the button and footbrake at the same time, and release at the same time, takes a little practice.

[Jeff Teuton]

We have every kind known to man on each car. One through the pedal, one brake light switch (fluid), and one to locate wherever you want it (steering wheel, shifter etc). They all work. My son in the T/STK car used a button on the pedal (once it went between the tread on the shoe and launched-bought new shoes). We can change from one to the other in less than 30 seconds in case of a failure. We also have a MSD Window switch (works between 2500 and 4500 so if you put the brakes on while at wot, it won't activate. It has been worth 2 to 4 depending on the car and the combo, but definitely worth something. I have also blown up a real good motor @ 3000 rpm putting it on the two step. On my car I use the fluid switch ( a jeep switch) .