Drag radial spinning on rim??

[1legjerry]

Originally Posted by blwilliams

Just to add another question to the group here.
long as the rim screws do not tear up the bead, how are the rim screws any different from a beadlock wheel?

I was told the radial tire has different construction on the bead then biasply slicks.

I have been told that the yellow body panel glue works well. But I never had a issue when I was running them. I'm back to non-radials. Less issues at my home track.

[CopoCommodore]

RTV wont help.

I know someone who has used VHT on the rims when fitting tyres and never had any spinning on the rim (32 x 14 slicks). The only disadvantage is removing the tyres how well they stick and then cleaning the VHT before fitting the new tyres. He has done it for many years before his new car having beadlock rims.

However, for any radial, I would look at Beadlocks to clamp them properly. Making sure you specify which tyres you are using when your order the rims as M/T and Goodyear have different bead thicknesses and I know Billet Specialties offer different beadlock rings for the different tyres.

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by 1legjerry

I was told the radial tire has different construction on the bead then bias ply slicks.

Correct

[1320racer]

Originally Posted by CopoCommodore

for any radial, I would look at Beadlocks to clamp them properly.

totally unnecessary!

[1700camaro]

I have run many sets of radial slicks mostly Hoosiers. The last 3 years I started running M/T PBRs.

It doesn't matter the brand; they move on the wheel & take no set. It happens if the tire is mounted with lube or clean tire beads & wheel beads with brake clean. It doesn't matter if the wheel is used or new (Weld Wheels).

The Hoosier's are easy enough to rotate (non-directional) to help maintain balance. The M/T's are directional & may need to be re-balanced or moved back to their original mounting/balance position.

I bought new wheels with beadlocks to use with the PBRs & have a set of Hoosier's mounted on traditional Weld wheels for spares.

Racers can do as they wish. The one thing I will not do is use wheel screws with radials.

[jmcarter]

Originally Posted by 1700camaro

I have run many sets of radial slicks mostly Hoosiers. The last 3 years I started running M/T PBRs.

It doesn't matter the brand; they move on the wheel & take no set. It happens if the tire is mounted with lube or clean tire beads & wheel beads with brake clean. It doesn't matter if the wheel is used or new (Weld Wheels).

The Hoosier's are easy enough to rotate (non-directional) to help maintain balance. The M/T's are directional & may need to be re-balanced or moved back to their original mounting/balance position.

I bought new wheels with beadlocks to use with the PBRs & have a set of Hoosier's mounted on traditional Weld wheels for spares.

Racers can do as they wish. The one thing I will not do is use wheel screws with radials.

Curios how much the double beadlocks slow you down?

[1700camaro]

Originally Posted by jmcarter

Curios how much the double beadlocks slow you down?

Jim,

I haven't had a chance to run them yet. I'm not too concerned if they slow me down.

I primarily bracket race & the M/T PBRs are pretty heavy compared to the Hoosiers I run.

[1700camaro]

I'm sure I was slower this past weekend & I'm sure the beadlocks contributed. The major factor of slowing was the heat/crappy DA. I also made changes on the suspension & launch tables.

I don't have any slippage between the tire & the wheel. It was worth it for what I was trying do.