Tie Down Techniques

[Ed Fernandez]

Originally Posted by Ed Fernandez

Having anything,whether it's a stabilizer,block of wood etc. in the front and jack stands or what ever on the rear is the key to stopping up and down movement.Tie downs alone will not restrict up and down movement.I think Einstein or Billy Nees said that.

The way I tie it down doesn't drop the suspension.So the springs are at pretty much at static height front and rear.
Bob,sit down loosen the top button on your shirt and have a tall one.

[Bobby DiDomenico]

Originally Posted by Ed Fernandez

Not really Bob.Takes about 5 minutes more.Take a look out the mirrors at the car going down the highway.The shocks take a worse beating than on the track.I bet the car will tow better too.That's a Baluga whale you have back there.

Ed,
You are correct, the car takes way more abuse in the trailer on our fine highway system than on the track.
(Unless you brake a wheelie bar, then slam the front end down. Another advantage to having a slow car!)

We used to do design work for the Army and they had some very exacting trailer standards, and one was crisscrossing the straps to prevent shifting of the load followed by securing the load vertically from bouncing. Then there was the angle of departure thing for the rear so you didn't get stuck on a hill...

[Philip Saran]

I had hook mounts (square 1/4" metal) welded to my front K-frame and use these to
tie the front of the car down in a X pattern.

On the rear I use axle straps over each side of the housing also done in a X pattern.

I have seen one open trailer that the guy has a Chevy Impala stocker and he has
what looks like a large "I" beam mounted so when the car is loaded the front K member
rides up on the "I" beam to take the movement load off the front suspension.