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Old 07-14-2018, 05:44 PM   #1
DailyDriverSst
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Join Date: Dec 2017
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Default Leaf spring suspension

(Posting here because leafs are more common)

Looking for some tricks and tips for leaf spring setups. Calvert says to run a 200 pound split mono, but I've read that split mono's aren't great on the street AND i saw that Steve Dzoirny had one break in his trailer on the way to Joliet.I'm not fond on the design anyways.

My factory leaf spring rate is 130 pounds. Something that was brought to my attention is that some people run very soft coil-overs to add spring rate to the leafs, IE 130 leaf rate + 70 pound coil spring, or take a leaf out of the pack so it's 100+100.

I've already cut the bandings off the back side of the leaf and added the extra front clamps. Is there anything else I'm missing?

What is the "magic function" on rear leaf spring rates - I know how spring rates affect alot of things on a ladder bar and 4 link cars, but I'm new to this whole leaf spring deal.

With a coil, the rate and length is a function of available travel and weight jacking. But since leaf's do not have much for vertical travel and weight jacking is primarily achieved through the anti-roll, I'm not sure I 100% understand the physics of a 130# spring versus a 200# spring.

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Maybe something else to consider is that I'll be running super street, 7.0 index, and general bracket racing with a race weight of about 4400-4500 pounds. I'll be leaving on the stop (albeit only on stop for 1/2-3/4 sec) for SST and brackets, 7.0 doesn't allow stops so that's the only time I'll be leaving hard (and even then I can use the MSD timing table to soften the hit).

As a result, main focus would be to cut a decent mechanical reaction time and have downtrack stability. Even with the procharger, I'll be able to control how the boost loads the chassis and comes in through the throttle stop release speed adjustment and MSD and shock settings. I just need some guidance.

Last edited by DailyDriverSst; 07-14-2018 at 06:12 PM.
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