SBC block filling ?

[carl hinkson]

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

Randy
. If you purchase a new block, lets say a Dart, it will take a couple of tear downs and re-hones to get the bores to stabilize as the block has to go thru a "settling & curing" time.

And I most certainly agree with Carl, that I never like a poured block over most after market blocks but as we all know, some manufactures do not have the advantage of an approved after market block and are forced to work with what they have and improve it any way that they can.
Hey just my thoughts.
reed

We have refreashened a lot of circle track engines using Bowtie and Dart blocks and so far have not seen any problems with cylinders being out shape during the rebuild, I would think if we had any issues we would see it on a leak down test or blowby out the breathers.

I don't know how pouring a block will make the bottom end stronger as it has nothing to do with the main webbing. Adding splayed caps will strenthen the bottom end!! as it ties the main webbing in with the pan rails.

The poured blocks we have seen where the pour stops show alot of wear as the bottom of cylinders do not come up to temp like the top of the cylinders do.

We sonic test all our blocks be fore any work is done and go from there!!!

[Dwight Southerland]

Originally Posted by Reed Granrt

But I feel if you do indeed pour a block, then by all means try to cure it after the pour for it to stabilize and shrink as much as possible before you machine it.

X2

Use some good telemetry and find out the difference in temp of a filled block (the metal part, not the water that is circulating) at the bottom of the stroke and at the top after some hard runs. That will tell you much more than all this theorizing. I do know that a BBC early 396 block has an entirely different temp pattern than a sleeved 454 service block.

[dwydendorf]

When you drill into the side of the block for the water drain be sure to locate it away from the center of the cylinder and as close to the intersection of two cylinders as possible. Also be sure not to locate it under any head bolts. This will give you more room to use a pipe tap to thread your drain. If necessary you can cut off a tap with an abrasive cut off wheel and grind a new lead on the tap.

[396chevy]

Originally Posted by Dwight Southerland

X2

Use some good telemetry and find out the difference in temp of a filled block (the metal part, not the water that is circulating) at the bottom of the stroke and at the top after some hard runs. That will tell you much more than all this theorizing. I do know that a BBC early 396 block has an entirely different temp pattern than a sleeved 454 service block.

Yep, For sure!!