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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 637
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Liked 254 Times in 78 Posts
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Update - Tested at Fayetteville NC this weekend, BIG steady headwind.
Best of 14.97 @ 85.44, 60ft 1.923, 8th mile 9.23 @ 70.26. So it went under both 1/8 mile indexs and IHRA 1/4. Still need a little more for NHRA 1/4 mile (14.85). Biggest change was adding 18 more inches of collector for a total of 25". With this change, it seemed to want less jet than before. I had cheap paint on the collector looking for some to burn off, but that didn't happen. Seemed to be a semi-significant heat differential around the last 7" of collector(last 7 were cooler) so may shorten them there. Any suggestions?
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Mike Moller NHRA 203 Q-R-T/SA Last edited by MikeMoller; 02-09-2015 at 03:43 PM. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 637
Likes: 27
Liked 254 Times in 78 Posts
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Fabricated brackets to keep brake rod from falling out and remounting brake bias valve. Mount for fuel cell (one 4 foot piece of box tubing from Lowes cut up, welded, bolts welded in for ease of install. Fabricated mount for accelerator cable(adjustable), original from 305 did not fit. Fuels cell and pump mounted in trunk. Overflow/vent is pipe connectors from Lowes, the underside pipe has holes drilled in it, then wrapped with screen and attached with hose clamps. front frame and underside was cleaned with a pressure washer then painted with rustoleum. Front suspension had new(stock) bushings replaced in upper control arms, new calipers, rotors, brake lines. Fuel cell $25, pump $15 from craigslist.
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Mike Moller NHRA 203 Q-R-T/SA Last edited by MikeMoller; 01-24-2015 at 12:00 PM. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 637
Likes: 27
Liked 254 Times in 78 Posts
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Test fit and fabrication of alternator relocation mounts, Front and rear bumpers backside and inner mounts/braces were very rusty, wire wheeled them, treated with naval Jelly, painted with rustoleum. A LOT of work but didn't want to be dropping rust all over the track. The rubber bumper ends were coming off, so made aluminum end caps to hold them in place. Finished mounting master cylinder and line lock. NOTE - 75 - 79 nova brake pedal arm for power brakes differs from manual, push rod/clevis hole location is way different, there are NOT 2 different holes like the older Novas. You have to drill a new hole for the pushrod/clevis and make your own rod and clevis unless you can find the stock pieces in a wrecking yard. I found a picture on a Nova website he helped me locate the new hole, modified a rod/clevis kit from Speedway.
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Mike Moller NHRA 203 Q-R-T/SA |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 808
Likes: 7
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Mike I have a 262 or a 267 block I would like to sell if anyone is interested?
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 637
Likes: 27
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Modified a JEGS universal fit drive shaft loop, cut one of the loops down and redrilled holes, shortened the L mounts. Reused the cutoff pieces by tack welding bolts in them so can put these inside the car and can 'one man' mount the loop from the underside. Cleaned/painted the underside of car. The rearend is 8.5 ten bolt with top Moser stuff and 5.14 gear, all new brake parts. Lucked out finding a housing with single leaf pads. Refurbed the used core support, welded patches where needed, sand blasted, naval jelly, rustoleum. The rear mounted with energy suspension pads, spring bushings, and eventually stock spring shackles. Comp engineering adjustable shocks set on 50/50, the comp engineering traction bars are a Craigslist score for $125 complete. Drivers side floor pan patched (I fabricated, took the replacement panel back) rest of the floor good. Also did a test fit on the slicks-a used goodyear radial and a M/T I got in the throwaway pile at Charlotte. No interference anywhere.
Behind the core support is a used Sepanek metric 200 and PTC converter I found on Craigslist for $600 total. Also some weld wheels for $250 total (all four). Not pictured are Goodyear front skinnes for $75, and Hoosier 28x9 bias almost new for $100 from Craigslist.
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Mike Moller NHRA 203 Q-R-T/SA Last edited by MikeMoller; 01-23-2015 at 02:27 PM. Reason: add |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wingdale, NY
Posts: 302
Likes: 27
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Hey Mike thanks for the thread. This is what I believe Stock Eliminator is all about. You did not throw $ at the project with people doing all your work. Your work is extremely clean and functional and obviously works! My 65 Impala project is going the same way, I was able to get my parts Cheap because I sold my 68 Impala to a guy who restored it to stock. After that I have to work smart. Big thing is I trust my welding enough to do everything myself. You also have great help with Joe Huestis, just make sure he doesn't get behind the wheel, we still have no idea what that 14" shoe can do!
Will Lamprecht 65 Impala stocker in progress. |
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Youngsville, N.C.
Posts: 623
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[QUOTE=impstocker;461637]Hey Mike thanks for the thread. This is what I believe Stock Eliminator is all about. You did not throw $ at the project with people doing all your work. Your work is extremely clean and functional and obviously works! My 65 Impala project is going the same way, I was able to get my parts Cheap because I sold my 68 Impala to a guy who restored it to stock. After that I have to work smart. Big thing is I trust my welding enough to do everything myself. You also have great help with Joe Huestis, just make sure he doesn't get behind the wheel, we still have no idea what that 14" shoe can do!
Will Lamprecht 65 Impala stocker in progress.[/QUOTE Sorry Will, already got behind the wheel last Sunday. Pissed off Mike caused I ran a lower ET than him. So he gets in and runs .05 better the very next run ! By the way they're a size 15 ! LOL !
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Joe Huestis "Annie's Song" Racing U/SA 2724 Youngsville, NC Last edited by joe huestis; 02-12-2015 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Misspelling |
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#8 |
VIP Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Lower Dakota territory
Posts: 1,180
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Mike...love your build.
![]() For some 1.5" headers, take a look at the Flowtech #11108's. Thery're a 'shorty' but not a block hugger style. They are long enough to get past the crossmember and with a few pieces of tubing could be lengthened. I'd try them first out of the box with a nice long collector extension. http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowtech/387/1...rentProductId=
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"That'll never work....." |
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#9 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 1970
Location: Jackson, Ms.
Posts: 350
Likes: 183
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Schoenfeld has a pretty good looking set.Either 1-5/8 or 1-5/8 to 1-3/4" step and reasonably priced. Quality much better than the Flowtechs too.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sch-165a http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sch-165va
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#4892 J/SA. We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence then, is not an act, but a habit.” - Aristotle |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wingdale, NY
Posts: 302
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Hey Joe, Clem was always right about that, you do have an advantage with more surface area in contact with the gas pedal! I think Pat H. has a complete 283, with a 2 Barrel I would fit into U/SA with the 65. Anyway great job with, truly an inspiration. I have only run a Street Hooker Headers with my BBC , My thing will be to modify those at least to equal length and maybe a step collector, but that's down the line.
Willie Lamprecht i/SA 65 Imp in progress. |
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