What Race Oil do you trust?

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

Does this differ with steel vs aluminum pans?

Yes, Aluminum pan dissipates the heat off the engine oil faster than a steel oil pan. The steel oil pan will keep the heat for a longer period.

[curtis reed]

Originally Posted by Bobby Fazio

Does this differ with steel vs aluminum pans?

Well I should know this year. Ran steel for years and put on an aluminum pan for this coming year. I also run a diaper and still use my oil heater.

[curtis reed]

Originally Posted by 427FE

How much heat do you want in the oil?

SSDiv6 gave a good answer. In my experience it is really hard to get/keep that much heat in mine unless I am making laps within 20 minutes. The double races I hit and making late rounds of both I will see 250°. I am on alcohol though.



I try my best to never hit the water with less than 150° oil temp though.

[Jim Caughlin]

Originally Posted by SSDiv6

You want around 220 degrees F minimum to get rid of the water vapors and burn any deposits to prevent sludge. Dinosaur oil, 220 degrees F to 250 degrees F. Synthetic oil 230 degrees F to 280 degrees F.

Really hard to get the kind of temps needed into oil in the real world, even if you have an oil pan or oil tank heater on your car, you'll be surprised how quickly it cools down just driving to the lanes. Anything short of hot lapping and your oil is probably too cold. Same goes for trans and rearend.
Interesting sidenote, occasionally on the dyno, you accidentally get the oil too hot prior to a pull, counterintuitively the best thing you can do is fire the motor and it instantly sucks the heat out of the oil, it will drop 20 degrees if not more. Bringing up oil temp with the heater while the motor is turned off is easy, very hard to increase oil temp while the motor is running. Monitoring oil temp on a dyno definitely proves that cold oil sucks a lot of HP.

[SSDiv6]

Originally Posted by Jim Caughlin

Really hard to get the kind of temps needed into oil in the real world, even if you have an oil pan or oil tank heater on your car, you'll be surprised how quickly it cools down just driving to the lanes. Anything short of hot lapping and your oil is probably too cold. Same goes for trans and rearend.
Interesting sidenote, occasionally on the dyno, you accidentally get the oil too hot prior to a pull, counterintuitively the best thing you can do is fire the motor and it instantly sucks the heat out of the oil, it will drop 20 degrees if not more. Bringing up oil temp with the heater while the motor is turned off is easy, very hard to increase oil temp while the motor is running. Monitoring oil temp on a dyno definitely proves that cold oil sucks a lot of HP.

Jim,

Right on the money on an engine loosing power with cold oil.

How many times have you removed the oil cap or valve covers and seen the accumulation of moisture before you make your first run of the day?

I believe the best approach and practice would be to heat up the oil or run the engine until you go above 230 degrees F to get rid of the water vapor and burn the deposits prior to the first run of the day. A heater would be the best way and economical since you would not be running the engine and wasting race fuel.

[jmcarter]

In case you missed the oil heater thread....

https://classracer.com/classforum/sh...hlight=heating

[Mike Taylor 3601]

Originally Posted by Wade_Owens

Asking about Stocker Engines in this thread;
I have used Royal Purple 5w20 for the last few years. After being told time and again there are faster, better protecting oils out there, I'm now ready to look at some other avenues. What good experiences have you had with which companies?
I did try Redline 0-5 once also, it was faster than RP, but my particular engine smoked with it.
I know a bunch of guys preach the Joe Gibbs, but, I also know some of them supposedly said that their lifters wont pump up with it. True or False?

What's your opinions?

Wade O

I didn't read through all the replies.. I have used Lucas 20 race oil for bracket mode for years in mine and Randall's truck also... heads up/class I used Lucas 0 and have had very good results....
as far as pumping up lifters a stocker shouldn't have had a lifter that pumps up for a VERY long time..

[Bobby Fazio]

How about when you have Sherman or Smith "hydraulic" roller lifters? Can thinner oils be counterproductive?

[RPM5595]

Originally Posted by SSDiv6

There are many great oils out there that provide lots of performance such as Schaefer, Mobil 1, Maxima, HPL and others.

At the same time, I have seen many use the Comp Cams, Total Seal and Driven Break-In oils for normal racing use. By the way, the Comp Cams and Total Seal Break-In oil are made by Driven.

When I was helping a friend of mine with his Comp Eliminator car, one the dry sump hoses was leaking. I loosened up the hose to retighten the hose and had a rag to collect and clean the excess oil. When I looked at the rag, I noticed lots of Copper and other shiny metallic material and asked the owner what oil he was using because the engine was only on its 7 run. He told me he was using one of the brands of break in oil and that his engine builder, a well know engine shop, had told him to only run break in oil. So, at the next race, the engine let go a few rods through the pan and after I took it apart, all the bearings were gone.

I had a chat with Lake Speed Jr. and Nick Ferri about the use of break in oil for normal use on a race engine. Lake Speed Jr, who is a licensed Oil Tribologist and engineer, explained to me that break in oils are just that, a break in oil to be used to breaking in the engine on the dyno or for a limited use on street engine. Nick Ferri shared that he only uses the break in oil on the dyno and then switches to the specific engine oil for the application.

For break in oil, I use Total Seal that still contains the formulation from Lubrizol that was created for breaking in NASCAR engines. For racing use, not in an order of preference, Amsoil, HPL and Maxima. For rear ends, Amsoil synthetic. For manual transmissions, either Amsoil or Type-F trans fluid. For Automatics, tractor hydraulic fluid or Amsoil.

So what is it about break in oil that is bad to use full time? What was the cause for the bearings going away? If the break in oil is better for initial run in how can it be worse for normal operation? This makes no sense to me.

[Dave Gantz]

Originally Posted by RPM5595

So what is it about break in oil that is bad to use full time? What was the cause for the bearings going away? If the break in oil is better for initial run in how can it be worse for normal operation? This makes no sense to me.

I think your answers are in this link that SSDiv6 posted.
https://s19529.pcdn.co/wp-content/up...Engine-Oil.jpg