Jerico Setup in 1995 Mustang

[BRETV]

Lee, make sure you replace the plastic clutch cable quadrant under the dash with an aluminum one. The factory plastic ones are junk. We used McCleod clutchs and Youngblood clutchs and Jerico and G-force trans, all worked fine. We had a 95 Cobra R and I think Rory is correct if my memory serves me right, the 94-95 cars do need the inch longer input compared to the 79-93 cars. The lighter the better on the flywheel. You will have to do ALOT of massaging of the trans tunnel if you know what I mean, for these trannys. LOL





Bret Velde
2003 FS/??

[bykr]

If he's got a Jerico trans and a Lakewood bellhousing (std. SBF) the different input shaft length of the stock trans would be irrelevant wouldn't it?

[Matt Welker]

Mcleod soft lok, work with black magic clutches. Cale is the best for help and tuning. Single disc set up right will be good and low maintenance.

[Sean Marconette]

Lee,
If you need a bellhousing, contact Browell and get a 6.1W. The W is for a window and gives access to quick CW and base adjustment and is a cone style. The Lakewood may not recertify depending on how old it is. Clutches are going to have mixed opinions. Advanced, Black Magic and maybe a few others. I have been pleased with my Advanced clutch and Rob for many years, others are strong supporters of Cales Black Magic. Either way, call both and you decide, as they are both good people and products. As Bret pointed out, get rid of the plastic clutch quadrant. A good quality aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster (mine is from Steeda) along with an extended clutch fork is needed. The tunnel will need work.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/15525/10002/-1

Sean

[Rod Greene]

Youngblood for the clutch NOBODY better.

[Lee Jordan (3223) A/S]

Originally Posted by Sean Marconette

Lee,
If you need a bellhousing, contact Browell and get a 6.1W. The W is for a window and gives access to quick CW and base adjustment and is a cone style. The Lakewood may not recertify depending on how old it is. Clutches are going to have mixed opinions. Advanced, Black Magic and maybe a few others. I have been pleased with my Advanced clutch and Rob for many years, others are strong supporters of Cales Black Magic. Either way, call both and you decide, as they are both good people and products. As Bret pointed out, get rid of the plastic clutch quadrant. A good quality aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster (mine is from Steeda) along with an extended clutch fork is needed. The tunnel will need work.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/15525/10002/-1

Sean

My bellhousing is 20 years old maybe? Its been around. So I should look at a new one I suppose. Are they lighter these days? Align better?
I like the ideas on the different clutch brands. Dad and I always used the Soft-loc in the Fairlane. I am used to it but I am guessing the tuning is all about the same.

[Sean Marconette]

Originally Posted by Lee Jordan (3223) A/S

My bellhousing is 20 years old maybe? Its been around. So I should look at a new one I suppose. Are they lighter these days? Align better?
I like the ideas on the different clutch brands. Dad and I always used the Soft-loc in the Fairlane. I am used to it but I am guessing the tuning is all about the same.

At some point there was a change with how many bolts and what size that made bellhousings not recertify. If it is 20 years old it most likely will not recertify. Browell or QuickTime are smaller because of the cone style construction. How much lighter may be a couple pounds. The quality of the Browell and alignment is well beyond any of the others, for not much more money.

[Lee Jordan (3223) A/S]

Originally Posted by Sean Marconette

At some point there was a change with how many bolts and what size that made bellhousings not recertify. If it is 20 years old it most likely will not recertify. Browell or QuickTime are smaller because of the cone style construction. How much lighter may be a couple pounds. The quality of the Browell and alignment is well beyond any of the others, for not much more money.

I looked at the Browell and its a nice looking piece.

Also, how much tunnel can I remove? My Fairlane didn't need too much but I had an aluminum piece with zeus fasteners to remove it. All of one side and the top of the tunnel. Maybe 22" long altogether. I don't think I will have to remove much more if that much would I?

[Rory McNeil]

Originally Posted by bykr

If he's got a Jerico trans and a Lakewood bellhousing (std. SBF) the different input shaft length of the stock trans would be irrelevant wouldn't it?

With the longer input shaft and deeper bellhousing, the 94-5 Mustangs would have the transmission mount about an inch further back. Probably not a big deal to work with. Also since Jericos have multiple shifter mounting holes, the shifter location is also easy to adress.

[Rory McNeil]

Concerning the Mustang clutch pedal /quadrant deal, when I built my 85 Mustang, it was originally a 4 cyl automatic car, I found the clutch/brake pedal assembly from an earlier FOX that did not use a self adjusting quadrant setup. These were used in 78-79 Fairmonts and Zephyrs, and Mustangs and Capris from 79 until 81 or 82, not sure when the quadrant style came out. This pedal uses a clutch pedal with a pin on the lever, so the clutch cable has an eyelet at the pedal end, and a threaded adjustment end for the clutch fork. I just ordered a new Pioneer clutch cable for a 79 Mustang 302 4 speed. I have used these early style pedals and cables on my Mustang Stocker, my Fairmont bracket car, and 2 different street strip Fairmonts. Simple and works great, like any cable, you just need to keep the cable away from the headers. On my cars, I used a couple of studs and Adel clamps to keep the cable tight to the engine block. As for clutches, I have been using McLeod Soft Loks with aluminum flywheels for over 20 years, with great results for over 20 years, with the Stocker, and my 427/428 FE and SB Ford stroker bracket cars. Usually get 2 seasons between rebuilds, sometimes a little longer...