Brakes help

[Billy Nees]

Originally Posted by Mark Yacavone

Okay. First step is take the pedal out and drill a hole about an inch up. They are case hardened , so use a drill press.
That's the free one , before getting out the Plasti-Card.

Also, raise up the master cylinder the same amount.
It might help you to look up my old "Under the Index for Under a Grand" thread. I posted some pics on there of how I took off the booster and modified the pedal.

[Mark Yacavone]

Originally Posted by Billy Nees

Also, raise up the master cylinder the same amount.
It might help you to look up my old "Under the Index for Under a Grand" thread. I posted some pics on there of how I took off the booster and modified the pedal.

The factory power eliminator aluminum piece raised it up some, too. Very rare!

[RobbieRacer]

Thanks Mark and Billy. I never thought to raise the master cylinder. I can do that. Would making the pedal 2 inch longer do the same thing? More leverage.

[Rory McNeil]

The best bet would be if you could find a complete manual brake setup from a low option early FOX Mustang, Fairmont etc. That way you get the correct manual brake pedal, the aluminum master cylinder firewall mounting bracket, and master cylinder. As Mike Graham mentioned, the manual brake pedal pedal location on the pedal bracket is also different, but both holes are drilled, so simple to move the pedal pivot location. Not sure what the caliper bore size on your larger front disc brakes are, but that could potentially be a problem. My 85 Mustang started life as a 4 cylinder car, and I retained the small factory front disc brakes, and stock rear brakes from the 5.0 doner Mustang, and swapped all the factory manual brake pedal, master , and bracket from a stripper junkyard Mustang. Had no problems stopping the car from 107 MPH, and even with the much stronger bracket engine, going 128 MPH, the stock, small brakes worked pretty good.