Before I put this on

[CMcAllister]

I ran a 3qt. unit and used an electric valve with a separate switch for it. This allowed us to prime the engine on a cold start. Shutting it off after starting the engine allowed it to charge back up. Turned the valve on going into the water, so it was active for the entire run, and then shut the valve off after making the turn off so the can could be recharged coming back the return road and/or back to the lanes. Worked great for me. I would want one on anything with a wet sump system.

[Darrel Goheen]

Originally Posted by CMcAllister

I ran a 3qt. unit and used an electric valve with a separate switch for it. This allowed us to prime the engine on a cold start. Shutting it off after starting the engine allowed it to charge back up. Turned the valve on going into the water, so it was active for the entire run, and then shut the valve off after making the turn off so the can could be recharged coming back the return road and/or back to the lanes. Worked great for me. I would want one on anything with a wet sump system.

I'm not understanding your procedure. Doesn't the valve need to be on in order to re-charge the chamber? I have one but haven't installed it yet but I was planning to have the valve connected so anytime the ignition switch was turned on the chamber valve would be open too.Thanks.

[Coleydog]

My thinking, might be wrong but, would the electrical switch run the battery down during the week then let the oil charge bleed off defeating the pre-lube benefited? Reason I was thinking mechanical.
By the way the cylinder is about 4" diameter and 18" long, how many quarts is that?
Mike

[Darrel Goheen]

Originally Posted by Coleydog

My thinking, might be wrong but, would the electrical switch run the battery down during the week then let the oil charge bleed off defeating the pre-lube benefited? Reason I was thinking mechanical.

You would want to use a normally closed electric valve. Valve opens with power. Closed with no power.

[nhramnl]

You guys are overthinking it. You have the electric valve accumulator. It can only be open (allowing oil to flow from the accumulator) or closed (not allowing oil to flow from the accumulator). You open the valve before you start the engine for the first time (for example, at the first day at a race). You leave the valve open all day long, and at the end of the day, when it's time to put the car back in the trailer, the last thing you do is raise the engine RPM (and therefore, the oil pressure) a little bit, for a few seconds. This "charges" the accumulator. You then close the valve and repeat the procedure on Day 2, Day 3, etc.

[Eman]

There's plenty written by the manufacturers of these oil cans to find out how to install it. Think about how it works and where the oil will go if there is no oil pressure, keep in mind oil will take the path of least resistance.
Usually the electric controlled valve will be wired to an oil pressure switch so it opens when oil pressure drops. The electric valve are usually 1 way check valves so the in is always open and the out is controlled by the switch.

[Coleydog]

Sound good, I was thinking the switch worked the other way. I'll leave it like it is. I like the idea of attaching to a low pressure oil switch so it's not energized all the time. Any other pointers?

[Chevy55]

I have a little different school of thought on starting and running an engine with an accusump.

If you start the engine with the valve open and the accusump empty it takes awhile for a cold engine to build oil pressure because the accusump will be filling the same time that you want all the oil going thru the motor.

I like the manual valve because I can keep it closed when starting the engine and then open it slowly only causing a slight drop in oil pressure when filling the accusump then leave the valve open for the rest of the day.

I run a 1 1/2 qt accusump with the engine at normal oil level, 7 qts with a 7 qt pan and nothing extra for the accusump, this lowers the oil level in the engine during the run, reducing splash and increasing HP.

My problem was losing oil pressure in the traps and using this procedure solved that problem because as soon as oil pressure dropped on shutdown the accusump would push oil back into the motor keeping the oil pressure up till the oil in the pan stabilized.


IMO it's like having the best of both worlds, steady oil pressure and a low oil level.

[Eman]

Also keep in mind if you change your engine oil and you want to change all of it you have to empty the accusump too.
How and where you plumb it in is important. If you open the accusump with the engine off it might make the gauge go up, but is it flowing through .003 clearance or is it dumping back through the oil pump 1/2" hole and back into the pan?

[gmonde]

it is legal in stock,, I ran the accusump on my amc stocker ,, it was a 3 quart system with the 12 volt electric check valve
when the system is properly charged when installed and during oil changes, it provides oil pressure before the engine is started and protection at the loss of oil pressure

the one way 12 volt check is actuated when the ignition switch is turned on and the oil pressure and 3 quarts of oil from the previous start up is stored is released in to the port that's closest to the oil pump ,this will get you oil pressure on your gauge before the engine is cranked ,,, once the engine is started ,oil pressure and oil is stored back into the accusump and once the hobbs switch has seen the pressure it will shut off the the 12 volt check valve and the pressure and oil will be held at the engine oil pressure running ,,

hope this help the explanation

the hobbs switch activates when oil pressure drops below the pressure designated (they come in 15psi or 35psi