Ladder bar leaf spring guys

[rx dealer]

Without changing the ladder bar location is the rear end housing floating on the leaf spring perch? if its too tight then it's binding and this will kill your effort. . Luke SS311

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by rx dealer

Without changing the ladder bar location is the rear end housing floating on the leaf spring perch? if its too tight then it's binding and this will kill your effort. . Luke SS311

No , everything's loose and oiled ( WD-40 ).

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by joespanova

No , everything's loose and oiled ( WD-40 ).

If you are not using floating spring perches, it is binding. WD40 is not a good lube. I ran ladder bars with leaf springs back in the '70s. On 10.5" tires. Hooked better when I went to mono leafs, then still better with the floaters.

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by Ed Wright

If you are not using floating spring perches, it is binding. WD40 is not a good lube. I ran ladder bars with leaf springs back in the '70s. On 10.5" tires. Hooked better when I went to mono leafs, then still better with the floaters.

Ed , of course I'm using floaters.......and they are not binding.
I'll move the bars up a hole and see what happens............for some reason I always assumed going down makes it more wheel stand prone......

[Ed Wright]

Originally Posted by joespanova

Ed , of course I'm using floaters.......and they are not binding.
I'll move the bars up a hole and see what happens............for some reason I always assumed going down makes it more wheel stand prone......

Use some good moly grease to lube everything. Mine was a C/Super Modified '69 Camaro. 302" on 10.5" tires. Making it wheel stand was never an issue. Don't think I ever moved the bars up or down.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by joespanova

Ed , of course I'm using floaters.......and they are not binding.
I'll move the bars up a hole and see what happens............for some reason I always assumed going down makes it more wheel stand prone......

Just don't move the bars past level with the bottom of the rocker panel. Mine has a down angle of 1-2 degrees. Horsepower and good chassis is what will make the car get up in the front. Moving the bar down will make it hit the tire harder.

[joespanova]

Originally Posted by Mike Pearson

Just don't move the bars past level with the bottom of the rocker panel. Mine has a down angle of 1-2 degrees. Horsepower and good chassis is what will make the car get up in the front. Moving the bar down will make it hit the tire harder.

I have had the car VERY wheel stand prone in the past..........to the point of damaging stuff.
Since I lowered the ride height in the rear it wont..........so to recover ( some ) I either move the bars or lower the housing on the perches.....I dont want to raise the azz end up a hole on the perches , sooo.........past level?
I'm already slightly down a degree or so............so I either go down more or up 1 hole as has been suggested.
The consequence of breaking parallel , at least from going DOWN some is already noted. The result of going UP is not.

[Mike Pearson]

Originally Posted by joespanova

I have had the car VERY wheel stand prone in the past..........to the point of damaging stuff.
Since I lowered the ride height in the rear it wont..........so to recover ( some ) I either move the bars or lower the housing on the perches.....I dont want to raise the azz end up a hole on the perches , sooo.........past level?
I'm already slightly down a degree or so............so I either go down more or up 1 hole as has been suggested.
The consequence of breaking parallel , at least from going DOWN some is already noted. The result of going UP is not.

I can tell you from experience with my car that if the bottom of the ladder bar is running on an upward angle in comparison to the frame of the car it will not hook the tires. A slight downward angle has always been better on my car. 3150 Lbs. and it will 60 ft in the 1.28 - 1.29 range when the air is good. This is with a PG.

[Tom Broome]

Originally Posted by joespanova

I have had the car VERY wheel stand prone in the past..........to the point of damaging stuff.
Since I lowered the ride height in the rear it wont..........so to recover ( some ) I either move the bars or lower the housing on the perches.....I dont want to raise the azz end up a hole on the perches , sooo.........past level?
I'm already slightly down a degree or so............so I either go down more or up 1 hole as has been suggested.
The consequence of breaking parallel , at least from going DOWN some is already noted. The result of going UP is not.

I'll try to keep this short.
You lowered your car and it doesn't wheelstand as much. When the center of gravity is lower in relation to the rear axle the car will not transfer weight as easily.
Did you lower the front at the same time?
I expect the solution can be found in the front suspension. How much travel? How much stored energy? What is your front spring rate?

I'm assuming your car is still a stick. Have you made any clutch changes? How hard does it hit the tires on the starting line? Do the tires slip or dead hook? Does the rear suspension squat, or lift?

Raising or lowering the center of rotation (ladder bar eye) primarily affects the reaction of force applied to the rear tires.
Lengthening the center of rotation affects the point of lift in relation to the longitudinal center of gravity, not an option for your ladder bars.

[Bruce Fulper]

Buy Dave Morgans book. ""Doorslammers. A Chassis Book" It has everything you need to learn