Hardblock?

[Alan Nyhus]

Originally Posted by James L Miller

To summarize, if you can get an aftermarket/HP block for your combo, buy one.

If they don't make one for your combo, either run what you can get or buy a foundry and cast your own and then get it approved by NHRA.

James, in your situation with the little 273, maybe the most cost effective approach is to sleeve all eight. I broke a cylinder wall last season that was .125-.130 on the thrust side after boring and prep:



Talk with Matt Steen at Victory Engines @ (507) 532-2436 and get his advice as Matt and Jason really know their way around those motors. -Al

[James L Miller]

Originally Posted by Alan Nyhus

James, in your situation with the little 273, maybe the most cost effective approach is to sleeve all eight. I broke a cylinder wall last season that was .125-.130 on the thrust side after boring and prep:

Talk with Matt Steen at Victory Engines @ (507) 532-2436 and get his advice as Matt and Jason really know their way around those motors. -Al

My engine guy in Florida wanted to use a 340 block (4.04" bore) and sleeve it down to 273 size (3.63" or somewhat bigger depending on the ring selection). I would have gone for sleeving down a 318 block (3.91").

Alan, was your block filled? The .130" number was fore and aft in the areas between the cylinders. I have talked with Matt, Paul Wong and others on the build. I'm mostly limited by the thickness or thinness of my wallet. It's fairly thick if I fill it with $1 bills, very thin with $100s.

Back to the studio for another round.