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#1 |
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I suggest a Dana 60 35 spline as well for an auto, 40 spline wouldn't hurt if it's a stick. If I didn't have so much 8 3/4 stuff accumulated, I would have put a Dana 60 in my cars. Moser has good, complete assemblies at a reasonable price. You don't have to worry about straightening an old housing or bracing with a new Dana 60.
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LOCOMOTION Racing |
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#2 |
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Ok fellas, I appreciate the replies. I hadn't planned on dumping the 8.75, and don't want to. So maybe to back up a bit, what level of hp are we talking to justify going from an 8.75 to a dana ? auto trans stocker, foot braking. Maybe you can tell me how much hp should I expect from a 383/335 to qualify mid-pack in an E-body ? 450 - 500 ? FYI, it's my first stocker, home built, doing everything possible myself, body is done, just finished with paint. I don't want to shoot myself in the foot with bad decisions, also don't want to buy what I don't need either.
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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#3 | |
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#4 |
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I hear you guys and don't doubt your expertise. As far as weight goes, with the 383 it looks an F car, and since I haven't done anything special making it lighter, it may be a little heavy and fall into G. And I agree, it will be more stress on it than a A body/340 car. I have a budget and can't afford to make everything bullet proof. I'll start looking around and run some numbers. thanks
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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#5 |
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If you have to stay with the 8 3/4, you may want to consider a few optional upgrades to extend its life.
1) Definitely stay with 35 splines. The axles are actually the same as a 35 spline Dana 60 axle, just use different lengths. 2) Cryo and/or REM finish on the ring & pinion. I've had a few sets done at Evans Performance near Atlanta, GA and I'm convinced that the processes extend their life. It will be easier for your set-up guy to do it before the process because it's difficult to get a pattern with the gears polished. http://www.evansperformance.com/home2.html 3) Straighten & install a backbrace on the housing. It may have to be notched for shock clearance. 4) Install a large diameter filler cap near the top of the housing mainly for easier regular inspection of the gears. You can usually catch a tooth or two starting to go away. But a ring & pinion or u-joint failure will likely take out the trans sprag as well. 5) A billet yoke on the pinion will help prevent u-joint loss from a yoke that can actually spread over time, which causes the u-joint to hammer itself out. (It happened to me footbraking a small block.) 6) My u-joint preference are solid Spicer joints. They have a good variety including 7260, 7290, 1350 and assorted conversion joints. 7) If your rear wheels don't have very thick centers, you may be able to get by with 2" wheel studs instead of 3" to save a little weight. I know Moser has them, but not sure about the other brands. 8) I'm guessing that you'll need at least 4.86 - 5.13 gears. Summit has them for 742 cases only. 9) Mark Williams makes billet caps that can be installed for added strength in that area. I forgot which side has the higher rate of breakage. Good luck!
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LOCOMOTION Racing Last edited by Myron Piatek; 10-16-2014 at 08:21 AM. |
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#6 |
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All the info given here is correct for the most part but I’ll just share my personal experience with the 8 ¾ in my Sport Fury. The 42 housing is the one to use and Spicer joints are a must. Each time I pull the driveshaft I use new straps on the larger of the factory yokes. In my low budget old school stocker I typically ran about 3520 in weight with times in the 10.70-10.90 range and currently have over 360 runs on the Richmond 4.57 set that’s in the car now. Your car will be a little lighter than that in G and being a budget car you might be in the mid 11s on a 12.0 index. The Richmond gears will crack in time because they’re a little too hard for racing.
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#7 |
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Myron, Paul,
Thanks for the info. I'm convinced I can make an 8.75 last a reasonable amount of time, especially following the advice given. But it's much more work and time. A new dana with all the options is just not doable budget wise. I'll look for a used dana that's in good shape, as well as price out an 8.75 setup with best value in mind. I appreciate the help, it's makes the pros and cons clear. I enjoy doing things myself, I save money and learn more that way too. Downside it takes a long time
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#8 |
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4.88 is a safe start "BUT" I would wait until you dyno the motor to see where your rpm levels are, 383's like rpm. I know you prob. didn't want to hear that.I was going to do a 383 stocker in my 70 cuda, but went the other way to a 383 SS. just my opinion….
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#9 |
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Myron,
Good ideas. I'm leaning towards 4.88, maybe with a 29" tire to start. Long way still to go with this project. I don't want to wait too long to order the rear, free shipping is good to the end of the yr. I'll call them and see how long the price is good for the rear end itself. If I can find a moser distributor who can knock off $ 600 to make it competitive with strange, that would work, but that sounds unlikely.
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Brian Carpenter Stock 1358 |
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