Strange Engineering Master Cylinder

[Tom Goldman]

Richard's probably got the right answer.
Most power brake pedals have a hole that gives about a 4 to1 ratio.
If thats the case, just calculate the distance to get about 6 to1 and drill a new hole in the pedal.
Definatly 7/8" -15/16" for drum / drum system

[brent flynn]

Richard, my car is factory manual brakes... all system is new...i didnt bother to check the piston size, when i installed the Master Cyl, about 1 1/2 yrs ago... ive since changed line locks, thinking that was the problem, but i believe its just the wrong master cyl. Or, its just a piece of junk. We used the Chrysler part, on my brother's 10.00 car, and it worked perfect. I just couldnt remember what car it came off of... All you have to do , is , notch the holes out , a bit, make a new pushrod, and you are in business....Ive bled brakes several times... doesnt help... BTW, the car drives like a Caddy, with the Global west stuff, adjustable Baer tie rods, and moroso springs... lifts straight, now. It used to twist on launch. 1.485 60fts , with bracket engine and 4.11 gears, bias slicks, 2400 footbrake...

[Richard Grant]

I would install a brake pressure guage on the front brakes. If you do you will love it when doing a burnout. You can pump the brakes to a set level each time. I usually set mine at 900 for my burnout.
You are running factory steel lines? AN lines do not work well for brakes. You can the brakes pressure guage to determine if the backs are ok also. You should get about 5 to 6 hundred pounds on the first stab if everything is correct.
No one that I know of has had a problem with the factory master when staying with drum brakes. Make sure that your master is not bigger than 7/8's. If it is that could be your problem. You may have chosen a master that was designed for disk brakes if you don't know the size or application.

[brent flynn]

Originally Posted by Richard Grant

I would install a brake pressure guage on the front brakes. If you do you will love it when doing a burnout. You can pump the brakes to a set level each time. I usually set mine at 900 for my burnout.
You are running factory steel lines? AN lines do not work well for brakes. You can the brakes pressure guage to determine if the backs are ok also. You should get about 5 to 6 hundred pounds on the first stab if everything is correct.
No one that I know of has had a problem with the factory master when staying with drum brakes. Make sure that your master is not bigger than 7/8's. If it is that could be your problem. You may have chosen a master that was designed for disk brakes if you don't know the size or application.

Yeah, I have all steel lines, and new rubber lines... I will pull master cyl, and measure it... Maybe, i should go to Napa, for a brand new one? (If this one checks out too big, or otherwise.) Im gonna put a brake pressure guage on the car...a good friend of mine, is giving me one. My Dad, had a '68 Bird(back halved) with 14.5/32's and never had a prob doin burnouts, and it had factory master cyl, was also manual brake car...

[brent flynn]

Where is the best place to source one? Napa is not showing a 7/8'', on line... i will call them tomorrow... Carquest, also...

[Richard Grant]

Since the car came with manuel drum brakes, I would go to NAPA and purchase a new stock master. Try to keep everything like it came from the factory. The drum brakes have like a 3lb. valve that keeps pressure on the lines that disk don't have. I think part or all of your problem has been intermingling drum and disk parts. Go back to the orginal setup and you should be fine. Make sure that the master is for 4 wheel drum brakes since some cars had disk on the rear and drums on the front or disk all around. None of these will work properly. Also, be carefull you don't get a master for power brakes, it won't work right either.

[brent flynn]

Richard, when I bought master from Oriellys, for manual brakes, it hasn't felt right, since. I called Napa and Carquest... they only offer 1" for that application(4 wheel drum, manual). Will that work, or should I go the Chrysler route? All wheel cylinders, lines and hardware, are new. Running Hurst line lick...far as I know, it is working fine... just don't seem to have clamping power...have bled them 3-4 times.... I know I will have to make a pushrod, for the Chrysler part...