Mopar Ball Joints - Page 2

Myron Piatek · 11-09-2012, 06:32 PM

www.moparts.com and www.forabodiesonly.com often have people selling the parts needed to convert from the earlier small ball joint/spindle set-ups to the '73 & newer bigger disc brake set-up. Unfortunately, any existing aftermarket brakes need to be changed to fit.

George Mirza · 11-09-2012, 09:54 PM

I saw a thread on Moparts about this issue. It said that the a arms when new are not threaded, the ball joints are self taping, so the first one that is screwed in cuts the threads. I would guess when ever one is changed it will take out a little bit of material and eventually lose it's proper fit.
I have heard of people putting a stitch of weld on them in street driven cars to avoid changing the a-arms. I can't see how this could hurt anything, just make replacing them more difficult.
I have the later larger ones on my car, and haven't had a problem yet. I'm not sure if the ones Tom recommended would be legal for stock, maybe ss. Go idea though!
George

magnumv8 · 11-10-2012, 12:58 PM

The old school front end shop fix for this is pretty simple.....all you need to do is with a small hammer take and tap the ball joint flange in the A arm reducing it's diameter to the point where the bottom of the new ball joint still slips in but the threaded portion does not.....screw in the new ball til it seats then put a couple small tack welds on it and you are done......

D L Rambo STK 1300

Michael K · 11-10-2012, 07:50 PM

I used Moog ball joints on my 68 A-Body that has 73-76 front suspension.

The paperwork Moog supplied said "thread ball joint squarely into control arm until shoulder of ball joint is firmly seated against the arm. If torque required to seat the housing is less than 125 ft-lbs, the control arm must be replaced."

I can't remember what mine checked at, but well over 125 ft-lbs.

Run to Rund · 11-10-2012, 09:06 PM

I would rather not weld on heat-treated ball joint housings. I'd look into red Loctite on the threads, and welding a strap across the joint onto the A arm.

GTX JOHN · 11-11-2012, 04:26 PM

Thanks for all the Excellent Advise.....I think I will buy the
new reproduction stuff When you consider the lower joints
alone are 50 each it makes to package not that bad!

Thanks Again!!

11-09-2012, 06:32 PM	#11
Myron Piatek VIP Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Florida Posts: 1,542 Likes: 34 Liked 138 Times in 51 Posts	Re: Mopar Ball Joints www.moparts.com and www.forabodiesonly.com often have people selling the parts needed to convert from the earlier small ball joint/spindle set-ups to the '73 & newer bigger disc brake set-up. Unfortunately, any existing aftermarket brakes need to be changed to fit.

11-09-2012, 09:54 PM	#12
George Mirza Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: North Attleborough Ma. Posts: 522 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Mopar Ball Joints I saw a thread on Moparts about this issue. It said that the a arms when new are not threaded, the ball joints are self taping, so the first one that is screwed in cuts the threads. I would guess when ever one is changed it will take out a little bit of material and eventually lose it's proper fit. I have heard of people putting a stitch of weld on them in street driven cars to avoid changing the a-arms. I can't see how this could hurt anything, just make replacing them more difficult. I have the later larger ones on my car, and haven't had a problem yet. I'm not sure if the ones Tom recommended would be legal for stock, maybe ss. Go idea though! George

11-10-2012, 12:58 PM	#13
magnumv8 Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Coraopolis, Pa. Posts: 172 Likes: 0 Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Mopar Ball Joints The old school front end shop fix for this is pretty simple.....all you need to do is with a small hammer take and tap the ball joint flange in the A arm reducing it's diameter to the point where the bottom of the new ball joint still slips in but the threaded portion does not.....screw in the new ball til it seats then put a couple small tack welds on it and you are done...... D L Rambo STK 1300

11-10-2012, 07:50 PM	#14
Michael K Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Minnesota Posts: 101 Likes: 89 Liked 62 Times in 17 Posts	Re: Mopar Ball Joints I used Moog ball joints on my 68 A-Body that has 73-76 front suspension. The paperwork Moog supplied said "thread ball joint squarely into control arm until shoulder of ball joint is firmly seated against the arm. If torque required to seat the housing is less than 125 ft-lbs, the control arm must be replaced." I can't remember what mine checked at, but well over 125 ft-lbs.

11-10-2012, 09:06 PM	#15
Run to Rund Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 583 Likes: 8 Liked 54 Times in 27 Posts	Re: Mopar Ball Joints I would rather not weld on heat-treated ball joint housings. I'd look into red Loctite on the threads, and welding a strap across the joint onto the A arm.

11-11-2012, 04:26 PM	#16
GTX JOHN VIP Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Boulder City, Nevada 89005 Posts: 2,721 Likes: 2,772 Liked 2,440 Times in 689 Posts	Re: Mopar Ball Joints Thanks for all the Excellent Advise.....I think I will buy the new reproduction stuff When you consider the lower joints alone are 50 each it makes to package not that bad! Thanks Again!!

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