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#11 |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
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I had the car out in the driveway ths weekend and I loosen the brakes up.
The car pushed a little easier but not much. Next I took the driveshaft out and pushed the car and it was almost the same as when it was in the car. someone told if the rear end is set up to tight would that make the car hard to roll. |
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#12 |
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Join Date: Dec 2006
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Try Wades advice. A tight rearend wouldn't make that big a difference unles somethings really wrong. Must be some thing out of alignment.
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#13 |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Liberty City [East Texas]
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checking pre-load for pinion bearings and side bearings is your next move.
You will find differences of opinion on the amount of bearing pre-load used with differential setups. Personally, I like to run very light bearing pre-loads for the pinion bearings and spool bearings. For the pinion bearings, I use a solid sleeve [factory crush sleeve is not used] and experiment with shims at the solid sleeve until a very slight amount of drag is felt. For me, it is a "feel job" I suspect it would just register with an inch pounds wrench, maybe 2 inch pounds. The side bearings will be only slightly tighter [more pre-loaded] than the pinion bearings. Again, a "feel job" that comes with experience. I think you mentioned having a 8.8 Mustang rear? If so, the side bearing shims will "tap, tap, tap" in place without much effort, using a small hammer. The above steps require patients, expect to change both pinion and side shims several times while sneaking up on the amount of pre-load. Of course, all the while arriving at the proper gear mesh pattern. And speaking of personal experience, I have successfully used this method for many years in many applications. Also, never experiencing any shortened gear life nor breakage. Once the gear/bearing setup is complete, before installing the axles, you can VERY easily turn the pinion flange. To my thinking, anything tighter is wasting power.
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Larry Woodfin 471W |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bellevue Ohio
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With the rear tires and brakes off in the rear , turn the pinion nut with a beam type inch lb. torque wrench you should see no more than 30 in. lbs of torque to rotate the rear end this measures both the pinion preload and side bearing preload at the same time. I'm more inclined to think the axle housing is bent at the ends and is creating a toe in condition for the rear tires which will make it very difficult to push. The gentleman who suggested you use a square and check for rear toe is most likely correct, it is a simple operation and will give you a definate result.Good luck Joe
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Joe Buchanan SS/BX 3117 |
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#15 |
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#16 |
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I just had 4 wheel alignment done they found rear end 1/8 out of square adjustable 4 link chevelle. Also replaced VW tires with moroso ds2 28 inch car has slight tow in sitting yet none at 4 inch. With 15 lbs in 28/10.5 mt. weighing 3600 lbs I can pull car forward with one hand by the door handle. Night to day difference. My disc brakes turned the sliders in drill press polishing with sand paper release good. Good luck
i |
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#17 |
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On the topic of disc brakes, on gocarts (JrDragsters) we had disc brake calipers that you could adjust with a set screw to back them away from the disc. Maybe someone needs to "invent" something like that to reduce drag.
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