Looking for a Holley Terminator X wiring expert.

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My combo is a 1 off weird duck 2.2L/135 C.I. single point TBI 4 cyl w/ a hall effect distro. 3 wire magnetic pickup 4 blade rotor (original upright Bosch Throttle body). Am currently in process of using the published and printed 271R960A Holley EFI MPFI Main Harness wiring diagram and custom tailoring/adjusting as necessary to make it work w/ the sensors I have (changing to updated sensors, adding some it never had and deleting some on the diagram I cannot add). I am creating/building and terminating the engine sensor harness myself. The harness is within 70 percent completed (completed as far as this stage...Terminator X ECU mounted under dash on board, Power harness mounted and hung all the way to the battery, crimps still need to be finished at the battery for clean fused power supply. (Deleted from the diagram are the following sensors (Any knock sensors and the other 7 injector connections, though I used the called for wire gauge sizes in all instances, and the EFI fuel supply system (with return to cell line), installed 18 months ago, and tested now a full season plus, is fully known working great (a JEGS 500 HP 5 Gal. Cell, Pump, Pre/post filters running Sunoco 110 Standard through properly sized lines I have many different High Impedance Injectors to choose from, current 1 on it now is a 24 -26 lb per hr.(and all have been flow tested from 40-PSI up to 70 PSI with charted in 5 PSI increment increased results)- and I am willing to purchase any Holley or other Injector(s) necessary to get the best results once we know that all sensors and the ECU are giving great data), currently running at 50 PSI (without the vacuum port signal connected, an adjustable FPR mounted on the Throttle Body (though I could reinstall the vac hose if needed or even switch back to the vac adj Stk FP regulator if needed. My Radiator fan is switch operated and controlled manually, as is the Moroso Water Pump Drive at the present time and I wish to leave that so at this time as I like race temp control solely in my hands before staging the car. The system is setup cold blooded, and It now performs best and is most repeatable and consistent if I stage the car at 135-140 degrees (if it is too cold it does not perform best), the thermostat is not currently installed and a very large washer w/ the hole the size of a nickel is used in its place). No matter the wait or rush at the ready line to staging is a process I can easily and quicky achieve so I want to leave that as is at present for easy repeatability. (It can be changed if necessary later once we have data to compare).

The J1A and J1B connectors have been fully populated in the correct pinout order for both the J1A and J1B connectors and every single wire in both connectors were meter tested the entire harness starting length of 15' of wire length for clean voltage and resistance signal (to alleviate any future issues before cutting and terminating any single wire in the entire harness). All engine/chassis grounds and shared sensor grounds in the harness were performed so far and fully tested (added a couple grounds to the Intake that share Chassi grounding points to match the original engineered/designed grounds scheme and make sure that is not a future issue). My 2.2L is solidly and rigidly mounted (using my combo wt/box/ torque strap in the AC mount), but also still contains/is mounted w/ the 3 point rubber engine mount system. So, those multi ground points must be utilized to have good know engine to chassis grounding. It works great right now, so I figured maintaining and matching that was best. The wiring diagram does not call for any Alternator connection, so I have not planned for 1, but should include that a 90 AMP Alternator is installed, and great known working condition and the battery is new. Currently the timing is set right now static at 46 degrees all in, all the time, a bit hard cranking but I have tested it higher and lower, and it is just 1 of those strange creatures that is just happiest/fastest at a certain point and this one loves 46 degrees. .430./.430 measured lift cam currently installed and dialed in 3 degrees advanced. Same thing. I do have multiple cams avail. (though they are not currently in my hands...are at Bullet Cams but will be back soon enough).

I have the following completed both J1A and J1B 12V Switched will be under dash inside car. Relay is mounted near battery under hood. CAN connection including USB 10' cable for laptop near Term. X, Inputs/Outputs completed and terminated at an 8 cavity Deutch connector. I have run the future Holley Dash Wiring, coiled it near ECU in case future expansion choice is used...no plans for the added dash at the moment. The Fuel Pump wiring is installed and run and ready for termination/connection at both ends...The Relay and an under dash stock mercury type tilt/rollover fuel pump auto cuttoff switch and the fuel pump wiring from dash to rear is good known and currently working fine from passenger dash side to rear of car now where pump is mounted.

More in next post below.